They are not that expensive... these are just generic ones from KBC tools.

 

Well, bought the tool, it is indeed a 5/16-24 but with metric markings on the head and fits an 11mm wrench. Weird.



Also redesigning my intercooler setup and making a smaller tank. Had an issue where on my last race it was actually starving the pump during the run (outlet pressure dropped to 0psi). This tank is about half the size, but still 4.5 gallons. With the larger 1.25" lines im going to use they hold 1.5 gallons just in the hoses itself. Total capacity will be around 6 gallons plus whatever the new intercooler will hold so should be plenty.

 

Is that grill to hold ice from the bottom of the tank?

 

Yes partly, even though its unlikely consider ice floats, I'm still more comfortable with some sort of screen for anything that might accidentally get in there. The gaps are 1/2" wide. Second function is to add structure to the tank and stabilize the return tube which will come up about half way and also acts as a way for me to drain the system by having the pump push fluid out. Youll notice there is a circle cut on the right that lines up with the hole in the bottom.

 

Very cool, you addressed the next 2 questions I was going to ask.

Return water will run over the ice in the tank, pump will drain water so you can fit new ice.

I was going to ask if you were going to add a drain but I'm sure using the pump will be much faster

 

I will actually have 2 drains, call it a lesson learned. The one inside the tank on the return tube directly that I attach a 20ft hose to so I can pump out water far enough way (usually into grass). 5 seconds with the pump is plenty. Then other one using a 1.25" barb tee on the low point on the lines under the truck so when I have to disconnect everything I can drain most of the water out without taking a bath when I disconnect the hose from the tank. Like mentioned the lines themselves will hold 1.5 gallons so thats a lot of water I cant otherwise get rid of easily. The pump is directly under the tank in the bedside so the water stops flowing when it loose prime.

 

That is Classic China and there Chinese games....

 

Here are some videos on the tear down of the trans: Overall low pressure resulted in all of the forward clutch packs being welded together. Some contact between the main and intermediate shafts. Front bushing as welded to converter snout which is why I couldnt get it off.

Going to have it rebuilt with a EA billet valve body and some other fancy parts. Should be a beast when completed.

Also having NCC build me a new 2500hp intercooler and upgrading the lines to 1.25"/-20AN.


I will have to move the radiator forward of the support bar I made instead of behind it, which brings it forward around 8in. New intercooler should clean up a lot of the piping and flow much better than the 2 smaller ones I have now. Has provisions for the BOVs and some sensors already on it.

 

Hey retard, it's in a private group

 

Hey old man, join the group