I noticed you removed the sway bar. Will you be replacing that with an aftermarket piece or is this a drag build?

 

It's on the short list. I was going to check clearance on these first. I have been eyeballing making a set, but I might go with some cheaper ones for now if needed. The plan after this season will be either go TRZ Arms or building a tubular front all together.

I will not be replacing it. This will indeed be a drag race oriented build.

 

Got a little done tonight, not as much as I had hoped due to some unsuspected stuff.

First thing I did was clean up the firewall. Then I got my HVAC delete installed.





After that I tore my engine down to the bare assembly. I was going to leave the valley cover on, but noticed it leaking pretty bad. I pulled the wire harness for the knock sensors and saw they were both broken and one of the ports was filled with oil. I am pretty sure I am just going to ditch the knock sensors. On solid mounts they won't be hugely beneficial anyway.

I did manage to get the new pan kit installed and everything stripped down on the engine.






I hope Friday to get the heads bolted down and the engine in the truck. We will see how cooperative everything is. For tonight and tomorrow I will probably work on my block off and mount pieces for the interior. I have my son tomorrow and toddlers and garage work don't mix well.

 

Last night I grabbed a piece of ABS and made a cluster plate. I will be mounting my tablet there. It will be used as my gauge cluster. I will also have a wideband mounted in the cluster.




Tonight I got some engine work done. I cleaned up the deck surface with a gasket removing wheel. Also because I am paranoid I cleaned out the bolt holes about 2,900 times. Got the heads on and torqued down. It will likely be a few days before I can work on it again, but next up should be getting it in the truck and test fitting the headers.

 

I got a little more work done the past couple days. The engine is in place and the driver's side manifold clears...barely. The Passenger side does rub the control arm just slightly. I plan to clearance it by taking a little off the edge of the control arm. There is a pretty healthy amount of ground clearance, which is nice. Also, I'm pretty sure there won't be an issue running the truck intake and maybe even the engine cover.

I had a few more pieces show up. Nothing too crazy, some braided sleeve, a few sensors.

Engine after being installed:




Clearance from the driver's manifold to the steering shaft:


Where the passenger side manifold hits the control arm:


Ground Clearance:

 

Sure, I'll follow an s10 build.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the support.

 

I'm partial to the earlier S chassis, but still the S chassis in general! You can find my build thread in here too.

 

I started fitting accessories. Everything seems to clear without issue.



A little over an inch clearance to the hood.

 

I got a few more parts in and started getting some final fitment checking and install work accomplished.

Installed the ICT knock sensor delete cover. I have to say this is a VERY nice piece for the money.



I fit the 4 port steam crossover I have and test fit an old intake manifold. I will be using a different unit as this one has some cut off barbs and a few of the brass inserts have pulled out.



Everything seems to fit fine. I was hoping the factory engine cover would fit under the hood, but knew that was asking a lot.

The intake I will be using was very dirty, so I spent a little time cleaning it up.


Stripped down the the bare manifold.


After cleaning. (Not perfect, but a lot better)



I fit my valve covers and packs as well. The coil packs hit the brake booster. I am hoping to slightly modify the bracket to make it work. If that doesn't do it I will decide between switching to the round coils or a manual brake conversion.