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it's for my nephew... mom promised to take him when he was finally big enough to ride the fun stuff & they asked us to come, too.
i'll admit i contemplated working some 862s over HARD & putting them on the car, but i ended up working some 243s instead.
Alright I spent a considerable amount of time research clutches over last few days and this is what I’ve come up with.
Single disk: I don't want a dual or triple disk clutch. The LUK OEM replacement single disk clutch I had behind the supercharged 4.8 lasted 30k hard miles and would likely last another 20-30k. Since I will likely only make another 200hp/torque with the new motor and not add any weight or traction a single disk is for me.
12in Diameter: I saw a lot of conflicting information on 13in clutch upgrades for NV4500 and the only definitive information I can find is that all 13in clutches have a 1.25 input shaft diameter. The GM NV4500 that came behind the 6.0 in Silverado 2500s has a 1.125 input shaft. I have a GM NV4500 and don’t want/need to upgrade the input shaft therefore I’ll stick to a 12in clutch. Also I spoke to Midwest Transmission, South Bend clutches and, Valair Clutch on the 13in clutch upgrade. None of the technicians or sales people I spoke to knew for sure if the 13in clutch, pressure plate and, flywheel would fit in the bellhousing of the GM NV4500.
Organic friction material: This is pretty straight forward I asked different clutch technicians as well as lots of google searches. From what I've gathered this is my opinion. Organic is plain and simple the best for DD applications. Ceramic is best for hardcore racing with lots of hard engagements repeatedly and can withstands lots of heat but not very friendly to drive because they often require more clamping pressure and that in turn makes the pedal very harsh. Kevlar is good for DD but has a 1,000 mile break in period and is much more expensive. I only found dual disk Kevlar clutches with the 1.25 input shaft diameter so that’s not an option for me.
so i ordered the LuK 04-201 (OEM replacement) from RockAuto & what looks like it used to be a throw-out bearing arrived as about 10 pieces inside the clutch kit accessory bag (with the grease, alignment tool, & pilot bushing). i talked to customer service & they want me to return the entire kit instead of just sending me a new bearing.
my question is when you did the swap, did you have to buy the entire throw-out assembly (with the sleeve that the bearing installs/rides on), or did the nv3500 one work? if you had to buy the full-on thing separately, i'm just keeping this kit & running to the parts store because it only came with the bearing.
on another note - if anybody else needs Schrader 20131 tire sensors (colorado/canyon/h3), RockAuto's sent me 9... yes NINE "new" sensors that were made in 2014-2015. i needed 5, but they only had 4. fine... i ordered another on amazon for $10 more. the 4 that came had days in Aug 2019 printed on the boxes but the dates stamped on the sensors were almost 5yrs old. i returned them requesting newer ones (industry standard says to expect 5-6yrs from the battery). they sent 4 more really quick (though i supposedly ordered the last 4 they had), but they were the same age (w/ Aug 19 printed on the boxes) again.
since the amazon envelope showed up with some other lady's order, i mailed it back with a refund as the only option). so when i ordered the clutch stuff, they showed more sensors in stock, so i ordered my 5th from RockAuto again. sure enough, this one also showed up in the same condition (probably one of the ones i mailed back).
i've emailed them each time about it asking why they continually send sensors near the end of their advertised lives, but they have no interest in actually checking the sensors before they ship, and they also say the only way they're taking these back is if i can prove they don't work... meaning install them & wait for them to fail (whether it's a week or a year) so my wife's truck would be down again & we pay another round of mount/balance fees. the other option is for me to pay shipping again each way for more, but they've still failed to indicate any intention of verifying the sensors would be recent when the next set goes out. what a bunch of ****!
sorry for the rant - i've just had it up to HERE with them right now & figured i'd pass the info on because i know some of y'all have GM midsize trucks.
😳 whoa that was a lot to read. For the throw out bearing question I'm honestly not sure I believe it came with the clutch kit. I have verified that I had an LUK clutch in the NV4500 so it's likely the throw out bearing is the same one you got in pieces. However since the 4500 and 3500 have the same input shaft size 1.125in I don't see why the 3500 wouldn't work. Hope that helps 🤷♂️.
It looks like a pain in the butt to change throw out bearings. Idk if my new Centerforce kit will include one but I might just leave the one that's on it there.
thanks for calling back the other day - i've had folks in town for t-giving & just now got a chance to respond.
so i started cross-referencing parts, and it turns out that i'm an idiot because with the internal slave setup, the throw-out is part of the slave... and i had a brand new slave with a brand new bearing on top arrive in the same box.
second - you're right; they are the same size... and the same part number from a couple different companies.
third, even the slaves are the same part numbers... so if i really wanted to save $30, i'd reuse the new-enough slave/throw-out that's in it (but that'd be dumb considering i already bought a new one, and it's just 1% of my overall cost).
i left them my Hurst (core) & told them if it don't fit, use the stock one that's in it now... and if neither work, give me a call.
Clutch came in and it seems a little more aggressive than the description sounded. Maybe it's just the orange paint.
Also kinda interesting Atomic pointed out I was on a 2 Bar map sensor on the old setup. Yet I saw 16psi regularly and up to 19psi with ice win the box and a fresh belt. AFR never seemed to lean out at high boost and the truck felt normal.