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Blown06 Suspension/Drivetrain Project: 4/6 Drop, QA-1's, 5-Lug, Bogarts, Long-bars

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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by black06
should look good all painted up
I know, I know...I got in a hurry and skipped the paint for now. I'll end up painting everything when the rear comes back out for the axle/gear swap.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:39 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Blown06
Yea, you can install or do a C-notch on any truck with or without a flip kit. The C-notch has nothing to do with the suspension components. I know what you mean about hitting the stops. Right now with the stops that belltech sent me I have about 1.5" of suspension travel till it hits the stops. Thats another issue I might have to address.

As far as your question, yes a c-notch will give you more compression travel.
Looks good! On my 4/6 drop, the diff hits the bottom of the box way before my bump stops. My bump stops are only about 1/2"-3/4" in depth, they are DJM's, you could probably use a set of those for more travel, but I am thinking you will have to clearance the box for the diff for more travel. might get away with just cutting a little structure out of it.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #53  
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might want to look into an adjustable pinion snubber
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by black06
might want to look into an adjustable pinion snubber
Won't need it once the torque arm is in there. The torque arm should limit axle wrap to less than 2* if it even moves that much. I'm using some pretty heavy tubing (1.25" .095 wall 4130 Chromemoly) so the arm shouldn't really flex. Hopefully once I cut that support ridge out of the bottom of the bed it won't be an issue anyway.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #55  
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On a side note I was just thinking....
that crossmember that the rear of the gas tank hangs from is directly in the way of the top bar for the torque arm. I think its so bad that notching it is not really gonna help. Its gonna have to come out. Now how do you retain the factory tank and basically remove the right half of that crossmember???

Maybe I should have added fuel cell/system to the title of this. Anyone know of a 15 gal. aluminum cell that has -10 outlets? If I do a fuel system its gonna be enough to support something else as well.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 11:57 PM
  #56  
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Could you just c notch that bar? IMO if you cut about a half circle out of it then use a nice piece of pipe cut in half to "box" it in, i think the strength will still be there.

Dustin
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #57  
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Here's a wishbone setup that removes half of the gas tank crossmember. Looks like it'd work for you. I'm not sure where that brace that runs parallel to the driveshaft connects to though.

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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:13 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by 2005 Silverado
Could you just c notch that bar? IMO if you cut about a half circle out of it then use a nice piece of pipe cut in half to "box" it in, i think the strength will still be there.

Dustin
Originally Posted by StrokerAce03
Here's a wishbone setup that removes half of the gas tank crossmember. Looks like it'd work for you. I'm not sure where that brace that runs parallel to the driveshaft connects to though.

Come on guys, are you trying to talk me out of the alternate route? lol!
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:20 AM
  #59  
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This may have been answered already, but why all the work into the 10 bolt? I am a believer that they can hold up to some serious power, but with all the work you have into it, why not just swap to a 14 bolt? Seems much cheaper and I would think more bulletproof. I'm not disagreeing with your build just curious.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:22 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Blown06
Come on guys, are you trying to talk me out of the alternate route? lol!
:cough:fuelcell:cough:
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