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99 long bed to short bed conversion...

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Old 01-28-2014, 04:41 PM
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I built the 4 link for air ride. I hope it works for drag racing. If it does great. Currently it has cut a 1.8 60' without issue. Not sure how it will do as the truck get's faster.

So far it isn't useless, we will see if it needs some tweeking with time. If it does that is a matter of cutting the bracket off and adding one with multiple holes. And possibly drilling the front support. The front can get as close as 3" apart and the rear the sky is the limit with new brackets.
Old 01-28-2014, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1969x11
If you are willing to drive to 35960, I have a 2000 model frame I would sell. Make me an offer.
I'll keep you in mind. Thanks, my parents live in Arab, AL so we might could work something out.
Old 01-28-2014, 05:07 PM
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Cool let me know it was a rcsb that had a fire in the bed...got the interior and back of the cab, bed front,one bed side. Its currently a roller with no front clip. I used the drivetrain to return my 99 turbo truck back to stock.
Old 01-28-2014, 05:33 PM
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1. A 2500 frame and a 1500 frame are different.

2. If you look at were the front leaf spring mounting points on the actual frame on a Long bed Vs. a Short bed frame, its completely different.

3. A parallel style 4 link is not a good set up for Drag racing if that's what you plan to do. They are designed more for cruising and and doing things like air bags that need articulation to lower and raise the vehicle. A Drag racing 4 link uses 2 un-equal length bars to create a point in which to focus the energy effectively.

My advice to the original poster would be to purchase a frame like the one offered and swap it Vs. Hacking up the original frame.

In order to do it correctly, you should section the frame at the seem and move the front leaf mounting point forward to were it is on a short bed frame.


Good Luck with your project!
Old 01-28-2014, 07:12 PM
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I am in the process of doing the same thing to my 03 silverado.
As long as you cut on the factory weld then it will be a breeze.
As soon as I start cutting on mine I will have a progress thread.
Good luck
Old 01-28-2014, 08:31 PM
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Me and a buddy built a long bed and cut from the center piece over the diff and installed an under bed c notch but we installed a crew cab bed on the single cab
Old 01-28-2014, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sammygroundzero
Me and a buddy built a long bed and cut from the center piece over the diff and installed an under bed c notch but we installed a crew cab bed on the single cab
got any pics?
Old 01-28-2014, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 98tdi
I am in the process of doing the same thing to my 03 silverado.
As long as you cut on the factory weld then it will be a breeze.
As soon as I start cutting on mine I will have a progress thread.
Good luck
I won't be cutting and welding mine, I'm only going to move the hangers forward and then chop the end of the frame off.
Old 01-28-2014, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by stennyboy
I won't be cutting and welding mine, I'm only going to move the hangers forward and then chop the end of the frame off.
Good Luck!!!

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...4-link-456806/

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ersion-498887/
Old 01-29-2014, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick



1. A 2500 frame and a 1500 frame are different.
A LD 2500 frame is similar in shape and if any different I think it might be 2" taller. I think it is identical in every other way. I could be wrong but this is the best info I can find.

2. If you look at were the front leaf spring mounting points on the actual frame on a Long bed Vs. a Short bed frame, its completely different.
No crap!!!!!!!! This is why the simple shortening of the frame seems as much or more work as the 4 link. Plus then it opens up you option for air ride or coil overs!

3. A parallel style 4 link is not a good set up for Drag racing if that's what you plan to do. They are designed more for cruising and and doing things like air bags that need articulation to lower and raise the vehicle. A Drag racing 4 link uses 2 un-equal length bars to create a point in which to focus the energy effectively.
I set mine up for air ride. I already explained that it worked great to run mid-low 13s and got me out of the hole at 1.8 60 ft. I don't see any major issues coming up if I get to the 1.6 area but if they arise I have some changing to do. All fairly simple stuff and not much money spent or lost.

My advice to the original poster would be to purchase a frame like the one offered and swap it Vs. Hacking up the original frame.
This seems like a great option on paper but sounds like a miserable time if you think about it. Depending on the current condition of the frame. Front suspension or not, any lines included(brake, fuel) rusty bolts underneath for the cab mounts. It would be horrible. If you can weld and don't want to 4 link z the frame and find bed. shortening the bed is also an insane amount of work and something I wouldn't be willing to put in the time when you can buy one off the shelf."

In order to do it correctly, you should section the frame at the seem and move the front leaf mounting point forward to were it is on a short bed frame.


Good Luck with your project!
So palm your head all you want this set up is perfect for the street and so far has been just find for the track. I don't see why anyone would do it any other way. Now if you are looking to make the power that blown06 is then yes I would start playing with proven drag 4 link set ups. Unless this truck won't 60' with a boosted stock bottom end cutting 1.4-1.6. If it does I would still do it identical aside from the geometry you claim I need to drag race it. No need to change anything aside from the drive shaft and bed. I think the stock tank would work too but I was already going for the fuel cell.

Last edited by custm2500; 01-29-2014 at 01:27 AM.


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