And some ******** hasn't built UCAs for Dan's Tahoe yet either

 

Please do come down to our Oasis of Freedom If you come down I'll do burnouts in the Tahoe and if that doesn't work I'll juice up the lawnmower or borrow something

It's alright I'll bug you every six months for the next decade or so.

 

Finished my 2020 4 piston brake swap, it's just like doing normal brakes except you need a washer between the caliper and spindle, nothing real complicated unless maybe your IQ is under 70. Due to that, Squatted truck owners beware this may not be the swap for you.

Additional things to note are that the pads and clips are easier to assemble since they just slide in and the clip sits on the back held in by some spring tabs and 2 large pins with codder keys. Lastly, I would be extra diligent to use Loctite and torque the caliper mounting bolts down properly since the washer takes up some extra space and may limit thread engagement. Come to think of it a lock washer might not be a terrible idea.

Driving impressions: These brakes will not feel like you typed in a cheat code to your braking system. I don't feel that they helped the pedal feel any even though I bled 6 bottles through my braking system to clean out the black gunk in the master. No fault to these calipers but I'm fairly certain my "Mildly mushy" pedal is due to the 267k mile hydroboost master cylinder being worn out like my ex. The good news is that during hard braking the ABS activates much quicker than before which should mean the brakes are now overpowering the available traction. It seems to me that with the previous brakes the weakness in the system was the brakes themselves and that the tires had more than enough grip on a dry warm asphalt road to stop with minimal if any ABS intrusion. Now as soon as the pedal is fully depressed the ABS starts its voodoo to try and keep the tires from locking up and will throw all the **** piled up on the passenger seat into the glove box without remorse. The best part of the swap is not that they may or may not be contributing to a minor decrease in stopping distance but, that they look dope as fuh. I mean come on high-end looking calipers for a few dollars more than factory replacement stuff, like a sore dick, you can't beat it. I should also mention that you can beat it with sore ballz #Vasectomygang.

 

So would you say that swap is better or worse than the previous NNBS or whatever it was we were doing before?

edit: Ah so now I understand why you can’t get a stiffy looking at my declads!

 

It's a mild improvement, I believe the previous brakes were NNBS 13" rotors and a power stop kit and I had no issue with them besides the fact the brake pedal never felt as good as my RCSB after the hydroboost swap. It was still better than nearly every other GM 1/2ton I've driven but not as touchy as my Silverado. In short, it's an upgrade but I wouldn't do it expecting super brakes because that just doesn't exist.


No better feeling than being free to spread a seed that won't grow up to hate you.

 

Does your hoe have the NNBS rear brake set up as well or no?

 

I may be mistaken but I thought the NNBS rear calipers were single piston. I can't remember what is on the back but I think it is just a factory 04 setup or a Powerstop replacement kit. I'd like to find something that looks similar to the front, it's just not worth dropping $2k on the Wilwood kit. My max budget for that would be under $500, I did see a dual rear caliper setup which would be cool because I have a Hydro Hand brake in my parts stash.

 

I thought they were dual hmmm gonna have to double check. Was just wondering anyways if you had done it or not and the comparison between the two in terms of which felt more worthwhile

 

I'm not sure which would be more fun... hand brake for the fronts for big burnouts, or for the rear for sliding around with ease lol. I think for my high center of gravity I'd rather do fronts for burnouts.

 

I'm really not sure I've done rear brakes a few times but never paid much attention. Was just happy this thing has disks and not drums like my RCSB. Although the drums are supposed to be better IDGAF they look like crap and are a pain to work with.

Tell me about it! I've had this handbrake for several years just waiting for the right project. I'd love to push it forward and activate the front and pull rear to activate the rear but it's not that simple. I have considered a line lock button for the front attached to the handle somehow for burnouts, would make burnouts much easier than jumping my feet around. Dual rear calipers would still be cool tho.

I think even mine would be a little top-heavy feeling as I keep the Vikings set pretty loose, would be fun to stiffen them up and let it slide!