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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
Most of the time the pistons will come out with any drop in LS1 piston. I say put it together, meassure what you got them either build the gasket and head accordingly or deck it further if needed. I would keep as much of that block there as you can.

Rick
That is why I'm only going to have the machine shop deck .007 rather than the .017 that would be required if I were to go with gm MLS. I'd rather run gm gaskets, but I'm with you, I don't want to remove any more of the block than is necessary. The lack of machine shops in my area is kinda killing me, though I would hope the local machine shops could handle decking a block…

Stock48
My rod bag claims a total weight of 616 gms
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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Did you keep with the standard journal size on the rods?

R
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #63  
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yes..
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
That is why I'm only going to have the machine shop deck .007 rather than the .017 that would be required if I were to go with gm MLS. I'd rather run gm gaskets, but I'm with you, I don't want to remove any more of the block than is necessary. The lack of machine shops in my area is kinda killing me, though I would hope the local machine shops could handle decking a block…

Stock48
My rod bag claims a total weight of 616 gms
Thank's! Im going to send the scat's back, and go with those. Be carefull about changing head gaskets around with those TTY bolt's. The torque specs were designd around the .055" GM gasket.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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No real update yet. I got a few more parts together, all I need know is the oil pump, cam and push rods. I got Caddy Racing lifters insted of the ls7's. Send off the rest of the main/rod bearings and wrist pins today so the machine shop can do a mock up and get my deck cut..
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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Well I got the engine back. They needed to line bore the block. The three middle caps were out a few thou. The owner of the machine shop says he sees it all the time with high hp turbo engines.

I got the cam bearings in, the crank in, and few pistons. Brian at wiseco suggested .021 for the top ring and .025 for the second. I wanted it to be a bit more of an oil burner, so I went with .025 and .028.

I just need to pick a f-ing cam, and tap my pan. o, and lap the valves and do some minnor head work.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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Now I feel better about my ring gaps, lol I though .022 and .025 was a lot, thats what Maule said. Git-r-done!!, , your baby pass is about expired,
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
... , your baby pass is about expired,

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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Those gaps are not super big. Gap is based around the size of piston and bore you have as well as your goals on how hard you want to push it. Yes, the bigger you go, you will give up some stuff. Better safe than sorry.

What are you using for clearance on the bearings?

R
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
your baby pass is about expired,
LOL, tell my wife that....

Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
Those gaps are not super big. Gap is based around the size of piston and bore you have as well as your goals on how hard you want to push it. Yes, the bigger you go, you will give up some stuff. Better safe than sorry.

What are you using for clearance on the bearings?

R


Shooting for .002

I might just throw a little bit of nitrous on the engine so I wanted it bigger. Plus my scr is right at 10:1 and I plan on towing so the piston to cylinder wall clearance is at the max of what wiseco says to run. I also gapped number 7 .001 bigger. lol
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