I forgot they moved the PCV fitting from the Cable TB to the intake manifold when they went to the Drive By Wire TB. It's still basically the same manifold Less a few inserts have been omitted Like the ones for the Cable bracket that you will need and it did not have the FPR vacuum nipple. The cable TB wont clear that fitting on the manifold, you would probally have to remove the fitting from the TB. It's probally just easier to use old manifold and buy a plug for the EGR hole.

You can move the Plug in the back to your old manifold. It works like a quick disconnect. Push in, move red ring inward and then pull plug back outward to remove. Sometimes they stick a bit but will eventually come out.

Missing bolt hole in the LS blocks is normal. It's too close to the cylinder liner and I assume they didn't want to deal with broken blocks so they omitted it.

 

Awesome. Thank you!

 

I forgot the 02 sensor question. You don't want it directly in line as it will block true flow to the sensor. Rotate it say approx. 90 degrees so you can get as much flow as possible, How ever be mindful that it won't interfere with the Frame, Body, Or Drive shaft.

You want it up stream Before the catalytic converter for accurate readings in real time.

 

I would also do it on the driver side because Number 7 is the most susceptible to going lean.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...sensor-511536/

 

You generally want the sensor upstread of any connection flanges to avoid potential leaks.

I find it helps to pull the engine if you tilt it front up so you can get the crank pulley to clear the rad support first, then there is plenty of room in the back.

 

I bought an expandable plug from orielleys for like 4 dollars when I deleted egr. It's worked good for me.

 

Thanks for the help! I have read that a 1 3/8" plug will work. How well does it hold up to boost though?

Since the engine is out I decided to clean up a bit. Shockingly grimy. As I was scrubbing down, I removed the wire harness for the old front differential. I won't be going back to selectable 4WD.



Next up installing the crankshaft bolt. First I put a bolt in the flywheel that locked it to the engine stand. Then I used the cherry picker to lift the engine stand ever so slightly. My thought was that the engine stand isn't resilient enough to withstand me torquing the crank bolt.

I don't have a torque wrench that'll measure 240 ft lbs so I tightened the old crank bolt as tight as I could. Then I removed it and replaced it with a new one. The book says to torque it to 37 ft lbs and then 140°, so that what I did. I don't have a torque to yield gauge so I drew a line on the crankshaft bolt and tightened it with a breaker bar until it was at 140°.

Real artists sign their work.



So I removed the 3 bolt flexplate from the 5.3L and installed it on the 6.0L. I have a Yank torque converter that is splined for the 4L80E, but is 3 bolts for the 4.8/5.3 flexplate. I don't know how much of an advantage strength-wise a 6 bolt flexplate has. I wonder why the 6.0L has 6 bolts instead of 3?

There's no amount of tilting that's going to make this clear. The best way it worked for me was to have the engine perfectly level. Then, lower a few inches and pull the cherry picker towards the radiator. All in all, the engine going back in was pretty uneventful.



Here's where I cut that L shaped piece off.



When I got to about here I stopped and put the exhaust manifolds on. I wasn't sure how easy it was to put the manifolds on after the engine is lowered in place. Nothing's torqued down yet.



One other thing, I had to drill out the hole in the manifold gasket to clear my large exhaust bolt.

At this point I discovered that I'm missing a transmission alignment dowel on the driver's side. How big of a deal is this? Everything is lined up and I've gotten several bell housing bolts threaded in by hand. I tried to pull one of the dowels off of the 5.3 but it just wouldn't budge.



I did manage to get 2 of the driver's side engine mount bolts threaded, but could only get one on the passenger's side. I'm at the point where I need to jack the truck up again so I can fit under it.

With any luck I'll have the swap done tomorrow. I'll be able to start 2016 with a 6.0L.

 

Use a hammer and a punch to push the dowel out of the back of the block. It takes a lot of force. I use a 3 Lb mini sledge.

Penetrating oil can help too...

It's fairly critical for engine alignment. If it's off you may cause wear to the trans pump, possibly damage the crank and so on... You will have a hard time getting the converter hub to seat in the crank if its to far off.

If you can't get it, let me know I will send you one for cost of shipping. I know we can priority mail for around $5-$6. Over night might be to expensive. $20 plus

 

I would get it in there as well. The dowels would take the load if the bolts happened to be loose enough for the trans to slip (rotate). With only one dowel, the only other thing stopping the rotating is the trans input shaft. So you will be side loading the input shaft. Not something I would want.

 

You need the dowel.

Move your wood and it will fit just fine