Well it turns out I grabbed the wrong connector ends. I took them from a different truck and mistakenly grabbed the wrong ones.

Here are the correct ones.



The correct ones are round.

So I took apart the factory computer to add the wiring for the ISS sensor and while I had it apart I decided to put my LS1 fans in.

I removed the cover and then used a 7mm socket to remove the computer's plugs.




Pin 22 and 23 is what you add the ISS wiring to.



I didn't take a pic, but pin 42 is what you add for the LS1 fans. I did the one wire setup. If these don't work I'm going to upgrade to the 05+ e-fans and radiator. They use a 2 pin setup. It's a bit better than my setup tapping the A/C signal.

So I went ahead and soldered the ISS wiring up. Be sure you twist the wires. I shrink wrapped the wires.



I hid the wiring and loom along the frame rail out of the way.

Then I moved on to the LS1 e-fans. I searched around for what others have done, but ultimately decided to just reuse my factory shroud. I didn't have any flat stock around. This will work for now.

I trimmed the fans a tiny bit to fit inside the factory shroud.



Then I drilled a hole for the fan's wiring.



Here it is all buttoned up. Looks factory for the most part.



In the mist of all of this I've been diving into tuning. This is my first taste of it.

The first thing I did was email support at hptuners and had a segment swap done on my factory tune. When I got that back, I looked up how to remove all torque management.

I removed 100% of torque management from the engine, but left 20% in on the transmission tune while in normal mode. I removed 100% while in performance mode.

I'll do more tweaking when I get a chance to actually drive it.

After that I looked in the hptuners repo for a factory tune from a late model Camaro. I copied the factory tables from the fan setup over to my truck's tune.

I saved the tune, and flashed my truck. I took a deep breath and turned the key.

Ignition!

Woot! I looked everything over and there doesn't seem to be anything leaking. I let the truck idle for about 10 minutes. The electric fans were running and everything seems fine.

I ran out of time so I haven't gotten to take a test drive or anything. I'm waiting on a brake caliper bolt to come in. I had to order the damn thing.

I do have one issue I need to look into. I can't enable 4wd.

 

Those look like LT1 fans, not LS1.

 

Well hell. They were sold to me as LS1 fans. What's the difference?

 

I had a problem, not being able to engage the front axle. It ended up being several little things.

First off, the actual button broke. The solder broke where the pins meet the circuit board. I resoldered that and it was fixed.

I still couldn't get the front axle to engage. So what I did was remove this assembly from my factory transfer case.



I plugged it into my factory wiring. This allowed to me engage the front axle. Once the front axle was engaged, I unplugged the part from the factory transfer case and the front axle.

After I started the truck, I got a "Service 4x4" error on the dashboard. I had to post up a thread asking about it, and do some searching through the forum.

It turns out, to fix it you unplug the transfer case control module (TCCM). This is located directly behind the factory 4x4 buttons.



It's that part with the orange plugs.

I had to dig through some boxes but I found my pocket I ordered a while back.



There we go, all installed. This is the last part that would indicate 4wd or AWD. For the average person looking, my truck should look 2wd! Woot!



Well, except for the fender flares. Those are a hint, but nobody notices.

Oh, and FYI, the correct plug for the speed sensor is the one that's shorter on the loom. The one in the middle of the loom, not the one on the end.

 

Looking good man, I understand you went with the Np149 transfer case is that right ? Where did you get the input drum to convert from the 80e ?

Also, I've read about guys taking the front axle shift linkage out and actually replacing the 2 piece shaft with a Silverado SS front shaft...

 

I got the input adapter from "time2kill" on silveradoss.com. He no longer sells them due to not being able to find a source for input gears to modify.

You can take the factory one out and send it to him. I sold my factory one to someone that did just that.

The NVG149 transfercase is hard to find.

Yes, you can also replace the front axle and housing from a Silverado SS. Either way will work. I just couldn't find one.

However, you cannot replace the entire front housing without changing the rear, unless you have 4.10's. I have 3.73's.

 

I was all set to take a test drive today. The only thing I had to do was adjust the neutral safety switch. Well, that's all I thought I had to do.

For some reason I couldn't get the shift column to engage first gear. When I pulled it all the way down it would only go down to two. That's why I thought it was the neutral safety switch.

I had to take the front driveshaft out. I removed the shifter cable mount and noticed it was a bit bent. So I put it in a vice and straightened up a bit. I actually bent it a little farther than 90°. This solved my gear selection problem.



I buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. Everything appears to be functioning properly.

I didn't do any full throttle runs. I won't until the torque converter is broken in. I think Yank wants 300 miles or so until you hammer down.

4L80E, 3000 Stall, AWD, test drive - YouTube

This is half throttle with 100% of torque management removed. Here's my tune if anyone's interested.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/34rx32nurd...ns%20tuned.hpt

I noticed towards the end a slight ticking noise. It sounded like it was coming from the front drive line. I'll try to crawl under it tomorrow and have a look.

 

I figured out the ticking noise. It was the same part from yesterday! Under a load the driveshaft moves over slightly and touches that bracket.



I bent the bracket a bit and it seemed to fix the problem.

The weirdest part about this entire swap is the fact that everything seemed to work out. I know that sounds strange, but I expected something to be wrong. I've never tuned anything before so I expected I would have to tweak the tune, but it appears to be fine the way it is. Maybe I can tweak the "performance "shift mode a bit when I get to wide open throttle tuning.

I went on a 40 mile test drive and everything seems fine. The only thing that seems different, and I know this sounds weird, but the exhaust seems louder for some reason. LOL

A few things I noticed after the swap.

Exhaust drone is slightly different.
Steering feels firmer due to power being applied to the front tires.
The 3000 stall torque converter makes backing up you feel a little strange.
Because of the 3000 stall torque converter, I can put it in drive and let off the gas and barely move.
The taller first gear is noticeable, but definitely not a dealbreaker.
Feels more confident coming out of corners. You apply power and the truck just pulls through it.
Removing torque management is awesome.

 

Hell ya !! Keep the updates coming.. If I could ever get off mandatory OT I'd be working on my truck ! 60+ hrs a week makes for one tired day off !!

Do you think you'll be doing anything with the driveshaft? It's hard telling in the pics how deep those scratches are.. Would hate to see it cause a stress fracture there..

Nice build, I'll be borrowing a couple of your ideas for sure !

 

I think the picture makes the driveshaft look worse than it actually is. It rubbed through the paint and barely into the metal.

None of the ideas are mine. LOL. I borrowed them from various threads on this site. LMAO.