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This thing will be fun to drive. I love mine. We are almost identical builds other than my motor is 408ci. Your truck looks good!
I put my i/c in the front bumper and notched out the frame. My IAT's do great around town cruising, with that being said everyone I know has told me that I would get better air flow but I have not seen any reason why my setup in the lower front bumper with the SS bumper is hurting my iat's. My i/c is a 31x4x12.
I ended up removing my big brake kit from Baer because I couldn't clear anything smaller than 20's. I am going to a 17" wheel with dr's now. Launching with any kind of boost I would completely blow my 22" wheels and tires and leave in nothing but tire smoke. Looks cool but when it hooks it is an amazing feeling!
I suggest looking into one of Atomic's coolant tanks. It really makes life simpler to give everything a little room.
If you do a dual fuel pump setup, I have the wiring harnesses numbers somewhere that I ordered from Racetronix and it basically made the fuel pump wiring a plug and play thing. Worked awesome! You didn't say what fuel you are using?
I prefer HP Tuners but it's all I've ever used. Those P01 and P59 computers are easy to tune in speed density.
Any tuning software like EFI, HPT or Holly are going to take time to learn. HPT forums is pretty good place to learn and post question. Just make sure you post EVERYTHING about the setup is key, otherwise getting help will be hard because nobody knows what you are working with.
This thing will be fun to drive. I love mine. We are almost identical builds other than my motor is 408ci. Your truck looks good!
I put my i/c in the front bumper and notched out the frame. My IAT's do great around town cruising, with that being said everyone I know has told me that I would get better air flow but I have not seen any reason why my setup in the lower front bumper with
the SS bumper is hurting my iat's. My i/c is a 31x4x12.
I ended up removing my big brake kit from Baer because I couldn't clear anything smaller than 20's. I am going to a 17" wheel with dr's now. Launching with any kind of boost I would completely blow my 22" wheels and tires and leave in nothing but tire smoke. Looks cool but when it hooks it is an amazing feeling!
I suggest looking into one of Atomic's coolant tanks. It really makes life simpler to give everything a little room.
If you do a dual fuel pump setup, I have the wiring harnesses numbers somewhere that I ordered from Racetronix and it basically made the fuel pump wiring a plug and play thing. Worked awesome! You didn't say what fuel you are using?
Thanks for the great advice, I'm going to run e85 and two 450's. Plug and play for them would be great. I like Atomics coolant resi design and am interested, and no offense to him, I'm not pretty with tig welding but I want the welds to look clean. Might get his non-welded kit and have it done. I know traction will be an issue from a dig but I don't plan on doing a lot of dig runs. Purely just building a fun street truck plus I love my brakes and 24's lol. I'm saving slicks for the CTS-V
Picked up the coilover kit from Orion, great deal and fast shipper. I don't intend on doing any suspension until the truck is up and running. Atomic says his brackets won't work on my DJM LCA's so eventually I'll dig out my oem LCA's out of storage. The spring rates are 850lbs, I haven't done any calculations yet but seems a little soft for the weight of the front end of the SS. Originally this kit was put together for a Tahoe.
What style of fitting did some of you use off the driver side fuel rail to clear the alternator? I remember reading about clearance issues somewhere. Is it just a tight 90* -8 fitting off of the fuel rail?
Being a cheap ***, I spent days searching for the cheapest stainless piping. Here's the 3" for the IC piping. I made a costly mistake and accidentally ordered 45* bends instead of 90* bends for the 4" downpipes but I'll see how much I can get done with these 3 45*'s. And a huge 5" inch bend for the intake turned out a little difficult to find at first then started cruising the Diesel pages/sites. Looking forward to the weekend to make some progress on this thing.
On the drivers side fuel rail, I had edelbrock rails with 1/2npt. Not sure if the holley has O-ring boss or Npt threads. I had to get 1 fitting that was a 1/2npt to a 90*#8. I tried a straight 1/2npt and then putting a 90* #8 fitting on it and it hit the alternator. So the fix is to keep it to one fitting that screws into the rail and makes your 90* also.
Got a call from Thompson Motorsports, my 370 block and 799 heads were shipped out today. I still need to find and build a 4x4 4l80 with out going broke. Any advice on 4l80 mods to handle 800AWHP on the street? Will a basic refresh with valve body, and HD clutches with a 3000 or 3200stall hold that or do I need to be prepared to spend $4k+ on getting it built?
Thanks AkSSS..I read you build thread. Your truck is a beast, how much boost are you running now?
Thanks! But my build thread sucks. I didn't do a very good job keeping it up or organizing it.
My last time at the track where I ran 10.96@125 was 16psi at about 14* of timing. My goal for the truck was to get into the 10's. I had fully expected to go quite a bit higher on the boost.
Got a call from Thompson Motorsports, my 370 block and 799 heads were shipped out today. I still need to find and build a 4x4 4l80 with out going broke. Any advice on 4l80 mods to handle 800AWHP on the street? Will a basic refresh with valve body, and HD clutches with a 3000 or 3200stall hold that or do I need to be prepared to spend $4k+ on getting it built?
This is what I put into mine. I have ripped the rear planetary apart once but I think it was just an old planetary.
I also have a 3200 precision multi-disk converter. So far that has been the most reliable piece in my drivetrain. Haha. And I used the same tranfercase adapter from timetokill.
01-30-2017, 01:06 PM
