Pete will give you the specs at .050 and that's it. He will send you nothing on paper. If you pay for the cam you should get the cam card. At least I did with my new flowtech induction cam. And it's a full custom grind using proprietary lobes. I fully intend to have my Vmax cam cam-doctored once I remove it. If it's not a 218/224 cam I'm going to **** a brick. For my new camshaft I'll say it's a 224/228 but will still have a tame idle........

 

I'm sure the crower mentioned in this thread will outperform the Vmax cam I have no doubt. I have a feeling I'm about to uncover a scandal once I remove my current cam.....

 

The 224/228 is a cam I'm thinking about going with myself. X-ER lobes and on a 110lsa for great mid range torque. PM me the full specs on your cam

 

ive come to that conclusion...

well with the supporting mods it should... but he wants to go turbo in the future, so we are goin to work in that direction to do it right the first time..

post up what you find.. or PM me if you want, i want to know.

 

dude, I saw on your profile your birthday....your exactly 1 day older than me...which is waaaaayyy to young to be getting married lol.

 

oh i wasnt planned on gettin married for a long time.

 

I have 2 theories in mind, either I was sold a smaller cam than specified, or the cam is ground about 6 degrees too advanced. Either way eithout a cam card you can't and won't be able to dial your valve events in perfect. I would advise anyone on this forum to never buy a camshaft without a cam card. There's no way of confirming anything without it.

 

Roger that!!!