The 114 will have a tamer idle. It's still a good cam no doubt, but it's a definite step in the direction of a more mild cam. I think it's a great 5.3 cam, but what I spec'd will have a more meaty tq curve. It will have a fairly aggressive idle, maybe more than I'd want as my sole DD, but I tend to like somewhat conservative stuff. The specs I tossed out are ore aggressive so only bc the original cam would have been straight wicked sounding at idle in a 5.3.

 

Would your spec'd cam (112 +3) work good with stock manifolds? and would the 112 +3 have the same lift numbers as the 114? It sucks that the 114 lsa is so affordable at 290 bucks and then a custom grind is close to 400...

 

What size tires were you running. And that stall is much bigger than I am willing to commit to.

 

How does this compare to the 212/218 low lift? Would you consider it a happy medium between that and the 220r?

Also what about the 269HR-12? Sorry, I know I'm all over the place guys.

 

the 212/218 will have really strong low end and mid with a nice bump up top compared to stock cam. The 216/220 is going to move the 212/218 power band up and will retain low end have awesome mid range and very noticeable top end. the 220 would mainly be a top end cam which is not good for a dd IMO.

 

The idea of the 216/220 is sounding more appealing and I hadn't really considered a cam that size until this thread. Now I guess the debate is whether to buy the Trick on the 114 or get the 112 custom grind like Vortec350 recommended. There is also a 120 dollar price difference to get the custom grind. Also I know people don't usually lose mpg with the 212/218, will stepping up to the 216/220 hurt mpg or will I be able to remain close to what I get now?

Sorry for so many questions.

 

My 210/218 on 116lsa with 4+ advance actually increased my over all mpg by 1-1.5. I think a lot of this has to do with the larger over lap allowing more cylinder pressure bleed off, high vacuum and smother running.

The 216/220 probably won't improve the mpgs, they might stay the same if you can keep your foot out of it, or they might go down slightly in the city. If they go down it shouldn't be anything drastic maybe 1 or 2 at worst. Has a lot to do with the tune and how you drive.

 

With factory manifolds you need to increase exhaust duration and decrease the advance. It positions the overlap on the intake stroke which is hugely important with the added exhaust pressure of factory manifolds. Too much advance and you will actually disrupt the intake flow.

 

What advance does the shelf grind trick have? I can't seem to find a number.

 

Alright thats good to know. Thanks.