I agree with you guys. The dyno numbers show the low end (lack of) numbers for sure:



I am convinced a tvs is the only way to get to where I want to be. The question is......... do I keep the L92 heads or swap out for cathedral which is more work?

PS:

 

That looks like work...

 

Didnt realize you had the core support removed. If I were you Id ditch the L92s, its easier to find blowers for cathedral heads too.

 

yea its alot easier to remove the engine/trans with the core support removed.. its only about 5 extra minutes of work.

 

What gears? maybe you could make a change there? If I were in your shoes I would run a much smaller cam and keep the top end...I dont know how to post a link but there was a 63 pg thread on tech about strokers with l92's and small cams, it was a good read. The op changed the cam out 3 times and the heads twice and dyno'd each time, real good info on what it takes to make power in a stroker/rect. port set-up.

 

I was just about to suggest a more torquey cam

 

From this site? That sounds like a good read. This is the best 6.0/L92 combo I've seen. It's actually it's the best NA combo I've seen period cathedral port or not. Yes there are many with great peak numbers but none with this kind of average.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ild-up-470269/

This is the link from post #3 in the above thread to the original LS1 Tech site. That's a beautiful dyno graph imo.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...p-446rwtq.html

I think what you do is based on what you want to spend.

A) (more work and time, potential for least money spent) sell your entire stroker engine and heads, pick up a good 5.3 maybe even spend a little extra money for a L33 or an LY6, buy a blower cam (I've always wanted to try this one or spec one like it. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...oughts-435536/ ) and a TVS 1900.

B) (less work and time, but most money spent ) Just buy a TVS 2300 or whipple 2.3(I've heard it cost the same as a TVS1900) and put it on your combo. You would have crazy power then.

Did you already pull the engine/tranny?

 

My gears are 4.10's. I found the thread I think you are talking about on LS1Tech. It is call "Lessons Learned" and is awesome. I wish I had read it before finalizing the specs on my cam. I am still in a quandary why I was spec'd such a large cam by one of our pros.

I think I know how I am going to proceed. After reading a bunch and talking to a well established cam designer, it is seems the cam I was spec'd would be awesome for a lightweight f body but definitely not a heavy truck. Roger Vinci has recommended a setup that sounds pretty good. A baby cam with 1.8 rockers. He has a list of cams specifically designed for L92 heads for truck use. For my setup he recommends this cam (his smallest):

DUR @ .004" 272*/284*
DUR @ .050" 210* / 222*
LIFT .551 /.551
LSA 116*

According to Roger, with 1.8 rockers the lift will increase to .583" and will add loads of torque, because they force the valves off the seats much quicker and initiate and maintain air flow. The 116 LSA will let it idle smooth and I can get rid of the reversion problem I also have.

Then, when budget allows I will top with a TVS 2300 which will work good with the cam also. But for now, I think the basic cam & rocker swap is the way to go.

 

Remember, a cam will be less aggressive if used in a larger engine than it is specified for. A cam designed to be used in a 6.2 (376) will be less aggressive in a 402. I like that you are swapping cams, that will help you a great deal. Your new low-end torque should be great.

 

sounds like a great idea, exactly what they were saying on tech. Glad you're going with the cam route vs. from scratch.