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I know it has been a long time but I have made some progress. It is the little things that really take the time like fabricating custom brackets so I can retain the cable throttle on the DBW intake and my remote oil sender mod. I still need to deal with putting on a 100mm MAF and making sure it is compatible with my PCM. So here are some current pictures:
This shows how I plumbed the vacuum for use with the LS6 valley cover and the fuel pressure regulator:
This picture shows the pre-2000 coolant cross-over piping that I used which bleeds also from back to front:
I really love building motors but I am not looking forward to the install. The motor will go in married to the 4l80E transmission and hopefully the headers. I don't think I can get away with the transfer case attached, but just maybe. Then I will have to measure the length for a new rear drive shaft. What fun.
Last edited by Duntov1967; 12-31-2017 at 09:49 AM.
No way it will go in with the headers on, nor will it with the tcase unless you have the front of the vehicle jacked WAY up or you take out the core support. I have dropped it in with the trasn attached and once I got the crank pulley under the core support where the radiator normally is I slip the tcase on then work it over the torsion bar crossmember as I work the engine back to the frame mounts.
What ended up being the complete specs on the motor?
No way it will go in with the headers on, nor will it with the tcase unless you have the front of the vehicle jacked WAY up or you take out the core support. I have dropped it in with the trasn attached and once I got the crank pulley under the core support where the radiator normally is I slip the tcase on then work it over the torsion bar crossmember as I work the engine back to the frame mounts.
What ended up being the complete specs on the motor?
Thanks for the info on the drop-in. What do you think if I drop the Tbar cross member?
I think even then it wouldn't go in with the tcase on unless the truck is jacked up pretty high. Where the firewall goes down the transmission tunnel it goes down so far the angle you have to work everything in with the core support still in just won't work. If you pull the ore support and drop the ac condenser down you can shoot it all straight in but its more work. In my experience the easiest is how I do it but that's not say there isn't a better way. Just that I have tried it quite a few ways and this seems to be the best, I don't like drooping the core support and chance breaking my ac lines.
Sounds like damn near the perfect build. A tvs would be the perfect addition, even the cam should work well with boost.
What did you end up setting all your clearances to? Not many people actually build their own motor anymore it seems. Are you going to throw it on a dyno? And if so do you have a multi disk converter that you can lock so you can do a low rpm pull where this thing is really going to shine?
Sounds like damn near the perfect build. A tvs would be the perfect addition, even the cam should work well with boost.
I would love one! Can you loan me the $$? LOL
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
What did you end up setting all your clearances to? Not many people actually build their own motor anymore it seems. Are you going to throw it on a dyno? And if so do you have a multi disk converter that you can lock so you can do a low rpm pull where this thing is really going to shine?
It's late now. I will dig out all my notes and let you know the clearances. I do remember the mains were 2.4-2.6 thousandths.
04-09-2011, 03:21 PM
