Does anyone know or heard of a LS7 crank going into a 2006 LQ4?? Will it work?? Thanks

 

Yeah, to run the factory oil pump the snout has to be machined down.

 

should work but y would u want to do that?

 

4" stroke crank cheap

 

Or you could run an ls7 front cover/pump/pan/custom crank pulley and have dry sump.
But it's easier to machine the .886" off the crank.

 

the LS7 snout has a different crank bolt, make sure if you cut an inch off it that there is enough room to thread the balancer bolt

 

You just use the standard bolt then, because it's essentially the exact same.

 

I went down this path once.. The LS7 crank has less counterweight due to the Titanium rods. Most aftermarket rods are HEAVIER than even the factory PM rods, so you end up having to ADD a lot of mallory to the crank to get it to balance. By the time you add cost of balancing the rotating assembly the value of using that crank starts to approach aftermarket cranks. Far from impossible, but there are some additional costs you need to consider. Personally, I have seen more than a few motors grenade because a hunk of mallory went loose, so I try to avoid it when possible.

Also, all the aftermarket cranks run are filleted throws, and are theoretically stronger in that area. LS7 uses a standard OEM width bearing..

Nice thought though... if you can find a lightweight rod

 

I to have built one, and as for cost, every engine i build with aftermarket components i have fully balanced, that is a givin. As for strength, good luck breaking a stock crank, let alone a forged ls7 crank. You do have a point with rotating weight, although much of that can be fixed with quality lightwight components-super light wristpins etc..

 

True, if you don't buy a complete rotating assembly, then the cost of reworking an LS7 crank balances (no pun intended) out. I once came across a set of LS7 rods for $550, I which I bought them.. All this would be easy then.