LS7 Crank
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I went down this path once.. The LS7 crank has less counterweight due to the Titanium rods. Most aftermarket rods are HEAVIER than even the factory PM rods, so you end up having to ADD a lot of mallory to the crank to get it to balance. By the time you add cost of balancing the rotating assembly the value of using that crank starts to approach aftermarket cranks. Far from impossible, but there are some additional costs you need to consider. Personally, I have seen more than a few motors grenade because a hunk of mallory went loose, so I try to avoid it when possible.
Also, all the aftermarket cranks run are filleted throws, and are theoretically stronger in that area. LS7 uses a standard OEM width bearing..
Nice thought though... if you can find a lightweight rod
Also, all the aftermarket cranks run are filleted throws, and are theoretically stronger in that area. LS7 uses a standard OEM width bearing..
Nice thought though... if you can find a lightweight rod
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I to have built one, and as for cost, every engine i build with aftermarket components i have fully balanced, that is a givin. As for strength, good luck breaking a stock crank, let alone a forged ls7 crank. You do have a point with rotating weight, although much of that can be fixed with quality lightwight components-super light wristpins etc..
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I to have built one, and as for cost, every engine i build with aftermarket components i have fully balanced, that is a givin. As for strength, good luck breaking a stock crank, let alone a forged ls7 crank. You do have a point with rotating weight, although much of that can be fixed with quality lightwight components-super light wristpins etc..
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