I agree with the tare down also, mine had 75k and the rings looked new but the bearing had enuf wear that there was copper showing also. Its cheap and ease to do, however over on tech the hole rod resizeing seems to be a bid deal when going with arps, I didnt do it to mine but it sounds like quite a few peaple have seen problems by not doing it on these ls1s.. Wearing the bearings then loosing oil psi at the hi rpm and spinning rod bearings. Might be something you should cheack out..

 

Thats a little scary lol. I got ARP rod bolts for mine (thanks kacey)... I need to let the guy that is building my LS1 know this.

 

I didn't resize mine either. It's fine just have to not be an idiot. Most people that have had problems tried to do it in the car. Kaltech doesn't require resizing, but thats only cause they wrote better install instructions to include with their product then ARP. But thats cause they havn't got burned by Joe "backyard" Tech yet...

 

yes, very close, but with some differences. I am rethinking the cam, and head mill too.
yes sir, I am going to inspect it sunday, and take it back to my shop for a tear down and inspection. then ball hone to get cross hatches back, then new rings and rod bearings and arp bolts, and procomp head studs, ls2 chain, ls7 lifters and new trays.

question now is what rings, and rod bearings? clevite, or stock, and for rings, perfect circle, plasma, molly, napier, or stock iron rings????

stock rings seem to last a long time, rod bearings not so much.

 

i was told that the stock pistons are not good for re-ringing,gotta remember the ls motors have the "piston slap".
meaning the piston and rings are not a perfect fit from the factory.
so find a good piston and ring "STOCK" ball hone the cylinders and go with it.
or do a full rebuild