Engine grounds
09-06-2015, 05:28 PM
#1
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Engine grounds
I'm having an electrical problem which I am almost positive is a ground issue. If I am not mistaken, 4 grounds attach to the block - (1) large gauge wire (looks like 4 or 2 AWG) which attaches to the block underneath the number 1 and 3 cylinders, (2) smaller gauge wires (18ish AWG) which attach to the rear of the block, and (1) flat braided ground wire which attaches to the back of the block to the body. Is that correct? or did I miss a ground?
Issues I am having are:
1 - truck takes throttle and accelerates, but intermittently stumbles and picks back up (a feeling you'd experience if you were in the throttle, suddenly lifted off and went back in)
2 - Dash is saying "battery not charging" despite the multimeter reading over 14 volts at the battery when the engine is running, over 12 volts when the truck is not running, and the truck cranks over without hesitation
3 - The "battery not charging" message comes and goes every few seconds, and the battery light illuminates when the "battery not charging" message is displayed
The alternator is brand new, and this truck is an '06 Silverado (DBW....unfortunately
). Please help!
Issues I am having are:
1 - truck takes throttle and accelerates, but intermittently stumbles and picks back up (a feeling you'd experience if you were in the throttle, suddenly lifted off and went back in)
2 - Dash is saying "battery not charging" despite the multimeter reading over 14 volts at the battery when the engine is running, over 12 volts when the truck is not running, and the truck cranks over without hesitation
3 - The "battery not charging" message comes and goes every few seconds, and the battery light illuminates when the "battery not charging" message is displayed
The alternator is brand new, and this truck is an '06 Silverado (DBW....unfortunately
). Please help!
09-07-2015, 02:02 AM
#2
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You have a P1637 or 1638 code being cycled. It means your new alternator is not behaving the way the PCM expects. Did you go OE or aftermarket?
Check the 2-pin connector and make sure the pins aren't bent. Also check your fusible link and be sure it's good.
If you really suspect a ground issue, take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery. Test and see if your issues are resolved. Otherwise, put a multimeter between the spool mount and the negative battery terminal and see if you get any voltage.
If you wanted to totally rule out any power-related issue, you could do this:
Check the 2-pin connector and make sure the pins aren't bent. Also check your fusible link and be sure it's good.
If you really suspect a ground issue, take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery. Test and see if your issues are resolved. Otherwise, put a multimeter between the spool mount and the negative battery terminal and see if you get any voltage.
If you wanted to totally rule out any power-related issue, you could do this:
Last edited by Suburbazine; 09-07-2015 at 02:18 AM.
09-07-2015, 10:52 AM
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- I went with an OE alternator (Prostart from Pep Boys)
- The 2 pins on the alternator are fine, no bends. However, the connector which plugs onto the pins had its tab broken off. The connector still fully seats, so I doubt it's an issue
-Sorry, but I don't follow this statement: " take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery". I don't know what you mean by spool and I don't follow the routing you described.
-Lastly, would a P1637 or 1638 code cause the intermittent throttle issue I mentioned?
- The 2 pins on the alternator are fine, no bends. However, the connector which plugs onto the pins had its tab broken off. The connector still fully seats, so I doubt it's an issue
-Sorry, but I don't follow this statement: " take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery". I don't know what you mean by spool and I don't follow the routing you described.
-Lastly, would a P1637 or 1638 code cause the intermittent throttle issue I mentioned?
09-07-2015, 03:27 PM
#4
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- I went with an OE alternator (Prostart from Pep Boys)
- The 2 pins on the alternator are fine, no bends. However, the connector which plugs onto the pins had its tab broken off. The connector still fully seats, so I doubt it's an issue
-Sorry, but I don't follow this statement: " take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery". I don't know what you mean by spool and I don't follow the routing you described.
-Lastly, would a P1637 or 1638 code cause the intermittent throttle issue I mentioned?
- The 2 pins on the alternator are fine, no bends. However, the connector which plugs onto the pins had its tab broken off. The connector still fully seats, so I doubt it's an issue
-Sorry, but I don't follow this statement: " take a short, cheap jumper cable and run from the negative from the spool mount to the battery". I don't know what you mean by spool and I don't follow the routing you described.
-Lastly, would a P1637 or 1638 code cause the intermittent throttle issue I mentioned?
By the ground cable, I meant go from the ground ear at the alternator mount (dual spool mount, has ear that says GND on it) to the negative terminal on the battery.
The code wouldn't directly cause a throttle issue, the codes are simply used to switch the instrument cluster charger warning on (does not turn on check engine). However, if the alternator is wigging out or if there is a bad ground, either of those could make the throttle body misbehave.
09-07-2015, 04:51 PM
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Hmmm....I think I'll start by running a ground wire from the alternator bracket to the negative battery terminal. Would a 4 AWG wire do the trick, or should I use 2 AWG?
If I still have problems, I'm going to pull the intake manifold and take a good look at the grounds on the back of the block.
If I still have problems, I'm going to pull the intake manifold and take a good look at the grounds on the back of the block.
09-10-2015, 10:37 AM
#7
There is also a ground from the Block to the front of chassis.
If there is a way you can scan for codes it would be helpful.
As mentioned most likely that Alternator was not re manufactured correctly.
Although rare, You could also have an issue with the GBCM. Generator Battery Control Module. This module is located on the main ground cable. You wont be able to see or do anything with it though with out a high end scan tool to read the data.
If there is a way you can scan for codes it would be helpful.
As mentioned most likely that Alternator was not re manufactured correctly.
Although rare, You could also have an issue with the GBCM. Generator Battery Control Module. This module is located on the main ground cable. You wont be able to see or do anything with it though with out a high end scan tool to read the data.
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09-26-2015, 08:06 PM
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P0054 - H02S Heater resistance (bank 1 sensor 2)
P0060 - H02S Heater resistance (bank 2 sensor 2)
P0102 - Mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0103 - Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
P0622 - Generator field/F control circuit
P1637 - Manufacturing specific DTC No information available at this time
C0035 - DTC not recognized
C0040 - DTC not recognized
C0055 - DTC not recognized
C0245 - DTC not recognized
P0060 - H02S Heater resistance (bank 2 sensor 2)
P0102 - Mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0103 - Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
P0622 - Generator field/F control circuit
P1637 - Manufacturing specific DTC No information available at this time
C0035 - DTC not recognized
C0040 - DTC not recognized
C0055 - DTC not recognized
C0245 - DTC not recognized
09-26-2015, 10:25 PM
#9
Take alternator back and have em swap it out, or better yet shell out the extra for the new one... Its not that much and new ones are much better....If you get another bad one, and you got reman, tell em you want a new one not a reman.... Not first time ive seen this issue with pep boys remans..... Best part about pep boys is so long as you use the rewards card and register your purchases you can get lifetime warranty on most of the parts, so long as they arent modified or past their useful life.... Looks like regulator is playing hell on about everything..... Check the ground on the body mount bracket under driver door too....
09-26-2015, 11:12 PM
#10
As mentioned that alternator is clearly causing an issue.
No way you have that many issues on the ground circuit that are actual issues. Those are all separate systems.
Your either getting electrical noise causing the issues or some sort of feed back on the ground side of the circuit.
No way you have that many issues on the ground circuit that are actual issues. Those are all separate systems.
Your either getting electrical noise causing the issues or some sort of feed back on the ground side of the circuit.