L33 mild build
09-09-2014, 01:37 PM
#22
timing set depends on how aggressive a cam and valvespring you're using. If you're using 212/218 style low lift cam, a good single roller will be fine. I like the cloyes hex a just single roller, it's what I'm using with the cam motion 205/210 cam.
Cam bearings will need to be the 04-newer style.
If you want a thin headgasket, the only game in town is cometic. Have the decks skim cut just enough to seal with them, otherwise you'll be in my boat and using copper spray to seal.
Cam bearings will need to be the 04-newer style.
If you want a thin headgasket, the only game in town is cometic. Have the decks skim cut just enough to seal with them, otherwise you'll be in my boat and using copper spray to seal.
09-09-2014, 03:12 PM
#23
pistons
since your buying pistons why not just bore it to a 5.7 ? it's the same
price for them. a couple of bucks more for the boring. are you going to get the block deck height squared ?
price for them. a couple of bucks more for the boring. are you going to get the block deck height squared ?
09-09-2014, 03:51 PM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
timing set depends on how aggressive a cam and valvespring you're using. If you're using 212/218 style low lift cam, a good single roller will be fine. I like the cloyes hex a just single roller, it's what I'm using with the cam motion 205/210 cam.
Cam bearings will need to be the 04-newer style.
If you want a thin headgasket, the only game in town is cometic. Have the decks skim cut just enough to seal with them, otherwise you'll be in my boat and using copper spray to seal.
Cam bearings will need to be the 04-newer style.
If you want a thin headgasket, the only game in town is cometic. Have the decks skim cut just enough to seal with them, otherwise you'll be in my boat and using copper spray to seal.
As for the cam bearings? im not sure of any differences in the seperate styles except one bearing OD is different from the other i believe(maybe someone can clarify on this??)
09-09-2014, 03:56 PM
#25
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I would go with the 5.7 bore but then if i ever needed a rebuild that required some more boring the block would be trash unless i sleeved it. Im not boring it for extra hp, im boring it to insure perfect round bores for my build. With the size im going with i will still have another .010 +/- i can bore in the future. I want the deck cleaned some but i am going to see what my machine shop guy says when i take him the block. It will ultimately be up to him and what he says about the deck. I should be ordering parts next week so i can hopefully have the block at the machine shop by the end of this month.
09-09-2014, 03:58 PM
#26
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Another thing on the head gaskets. I would like to run the stock head gaskets on this build and i believe they are .051 thickness?? so i will deff have to shave the heads to get the CR i want. Since i am running 241 heads i will have to buy LS1 head gaskets right?
09-10-2014, 12:52 AM
#27
Dura Bonds are fine, I have not used federal mogul cam bearings in an LS yet.
In my personal experience, the Typical LS engines usually very a little from block to block. You will most like be around +.006 out of the hole. I have seen as much as +.008. I also had one block that was even shifted to 1 side and had a low spot in the deck. I dont believe I have seen a block yet that was less than +.005 out of the hole.
The factory L33 was rated at like 9.9:1 compression ratio with approx a 64cc combustion chamber and a flat top piston assumed at a zero deck. Even though they typically sit about +.006 above the deck.
Best thing to do is measure to be sure. Like I said every block is a little different. I had my decks cut to bring the piston +.010 out of the hole. As I was shooting to be closer to a .040 Quench on my motor.
With a -.002 piston you will need to mill the deck of the block and the heads to get around 10.5:1
If I am right, with a -.002 disch piston, you want to be +0.010 out of the hole with around a 61CC combustion chamber and a factory .052 head gasket.
You can cut the decks more but I wouldn't go to much if you ever want to change your set up. Cometics are not cheap but you could also get a thinner gasket.
In my personal experience, the Typical LS engines usually very a little from block to block. You will most like be around +.006 out of the hole. I have seen as much as +.008. I also had one block that was even shifted to 1 side and had a low spot in the deck. I dont believe I have seen a block yet that was less than +.005 out of the hole.
The factory L33 was rated at like 9.9:1 compression ratio with approx a 64cc combustion chamber and a flat top piston assumed at a zero deck. Even though they typically sit about +.006 above the deck.
Best thing to do is measure to be sure. Like I said every block is a little different. I had my decks cut to bring the piston +.010 out of the hole. As I was shooting to be closer to a .040 Quench on my motor.
With a -.002 piston you will need to mill the deck of the block and the heads to get around 10.5:1
If I am right, with a -.002 disch piston, you want to be +0.010 out of the hole with around a 61CC combustion chamber and a factory .052 head gasket.
You can cut the decks more but I wouldn't go to much if you ever want to change your set up. Cometics are not cheap but you could also get a thinner gasket.
09-10-2014, 06:28 AM
#28
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks brick, that is good info. So when i take it to the machine shop i will tell him to check the piston/deck height so i can see where its at. Or could i get by with just telling hime to cut .005" from the deck and call it good?
09-11-2014, 01:12 AM
#29
It's best to have them mock it up and measure since every piston is different as well as every block.
Tell them what you want to shoot for and let them do the rest.