I recently just bought a used L33 out of a 05' silvy that has 103k on it but the reason it was removed was because the truck flipped and the engine ran for 20-30 seconds upside down. The engine was running when it was flipped back over and the oil pressure was just alittle low(around 15-20 psi at idle) so the company pulled it and sold it as a short block to be rebuilt. I lucked up and got it for $299. I want to do a mild build on it and I had several questions.

1. I want to use the stock crank but was wondering if I would be better off buying a new stock crank that came in a rotating assembly. This will be a daily driven engine and I want to get as many miles out of it and need it to be really reliable.

2. I will be doing forged pistons and rods because it may see boost in the future. I will only be over boring about .05" because of the thin sleeves and I want to save alittle room in case of another rebuild down the road. I know I want to go with Wiseco pistons but I am open to suggestions for the rods.

3. I have a set of stock 241 heads that will be going on this engine and I think I want to send them to advanced induction for my port work and rebuilding. (any opinions or suggestions on that??)

4. I am also open to tips about all the little(but important) pieces. What bearings are very reliable for a DD, Lifters, rockers(I am considering roller rockers). Also about my cam selection, I want a good torque curve because this will be a DD truck but I also don't want to put a cam in it and then feel like I left a lot on the table.

Sorry about the long post and all the questions. Thanks for the help guys
Lee

 

The stock crank is good to 1000hp, so save your money if it can be re-used. make sure you use a program like this to obtain a close calculation of your compression ratio when deciding on a piston with the 66.67 cc ls1 heads.
Engine Size and Compression Calculator

Roughly every 0.007" milled off the head is 1cc removed from the chamber size. If you mill the heads you will need to get a push rod length checker to measure for proper push rod size. Get hardened pushrods, ls7 lifter are good for the money. Springs depend on the cam lift.

For a cam I would look at all companys that mimic the comp 212/218 on 114lsa. vinci 210/218 on 112-16 lsa, sdpc, isky, lunati, This duration range has been proven time after time the best low end tq and over all power with a stock stall. best mpg range also, mainly due to the stock stall.

 

Porting your heads will hurt low end tq some, defiantly help out WOT though. The small 5.3 bore needs velocity of air flow from the runner not volume to make low end tq. Something to think about since you want a tq motor, but boost likes big ports and 9-10.1 compression range also

 

I agree with most of the above save the lifters. There are a couple threads floating around of people having issues with the ls7 lifters. It seems Brian Tooly lifters are a good alternative for a bit more money. You may want to look at his dual valve springs too if you plan on boost in the future. Also, although a port job on the heads would help, if your going fi in the future it may not be necessary depending on your power goals. The money could then be put towards fuel system or transmission. Just food for thought.

 

Thanks for the insight guys, when its done i want a very streetable 400hp engine. I think that will be easily obtainable with heads and cam work. What is everyones take on bearings? I have read alot of people sticking with federal mogul beatings but what is the verdict on King, or clevite bearings? Remember, im trying to have reliability and longevity out of this engine.

Also, for the crank. Can i have the crank balanced and checked out apart from a rotating assembly or is the crank balanced with the rotating assembly on these engines?

 

bump... anybody?

 

the crank must be balanced with the rods, pistons, and rings. This is fundamental engine dynamics. wait until you have the entire rotating assembly, then send it to be balanced

 

Ok thanks for the info. What about the other questions, like my bearing selection?? There seems to be negative info for every company but this wont be a weekend racer or a strip truck. It will be daily driven and be used as a truck with some pep behind it. What kin on bearings are guys using for a dd that needs to be really reliable? I searched about this but most guys are building for high rpm and boost. I have settled on durabond cam bearings so i need a choice for the rods and mains. Thanks guys

 

I'm running clevite H bearings and haven't had any issues.

Have you searched the threads on LS1tech Gen III internal engine section? You will find lots of info there.

 

You could also look around on texas speed and performance for example at all the different brands and prices. Then go Google search and review what people think. You don't have to buy the best/most expensive unless you are trying to make 1500hp