Have my cam ready to go in, but im just going to go ahead and do a 243 swap instead of just swapping my springs onto my stock heads.
Which rises a few questions for me. Ive read quite a few threads and would like a bit of clarification.

1. Mill heads .030 to keep factory compression, but which head gasket?
2. Are the ls7 lifters absolutely necessary, or can I keep my factory lifters? less than 10k on the motor.
3. Cam is a 214/222 .560 111lsa, I have 7.4 pushrods, am I going to need to drop to 7.350?

Anything else im missing?

 

ls9 gaskets

new head bolts or studs (boost in the future)?

I would keep the lifters that are in it.

get a pushrod checker

 

boost probably not, unless I can find a supercharger setup for ~2k
I have a tbss intake/tb and injectors that will be going on at the same time

 

Milling 243 heads .020" will be about 61cc which is the same as 5.3 heads. Milling .030" would be about 59cc. A little boost in compression is good, so I'd go with .030". Unless you plan to boost it, just get the regular GM MLS gaskets. Keep your stock lifters with those low miles. As for pushrod length, you should measure for sure, but if the cam uses the same base circle as stock, you should be close with 7.350" pushrods.

 

I have installed pro comp head studs on a motor that was still in the truck, not fun.....especially the back two.

If you are not boosting it or plan on removing the heads anymore, I would go with the stock bolts for ease.

 

While not inexpensive, but still definitely an upgrade over the stock pieces, you could use ARP head bolts in lieu of a stud kit.

 

X2 That's why my buddy decided on pro comp $69 of pain in the ***. haha I have never installed ARP but I'm assuming from the price, they have done their home work and allowed for smooth installation.

 

Right, just get the ARP bolts. They are stronger than stock and reusable. I also prefer just torqueing them down to a set spec instead of figuring out the TTY angles of the stock bolts. If you ever pull the heads off in the future the APR bolts pay for themselves because you don't need to buy bolts again. If you are building a boost engine, than consider studs.

 

Thanks for the help fellas.
I won't be boosting, although I wish I was.
Any recommendations on where to buy the arp bolts? I had planned on doing so but where's the cheapest?

Also, anyone local to the Sacramento area that can recommend a good, reasonably priced machine shop?
And last, I just need a basic factory head gasket? I am still unsettled on the thickness of which gasket to use.

This is my first cam and head swap if anyone is local and looking for some beer! Haha

 

Get the special fuel line remover plastic pieces C shaped. If the heads are not going to be milled than 7.4 push rods should work. It is easier to install the springs while the heads are out. The timing chain can't be replaced unless you pull the oil pump off, but with your miles you shouldn't need to replace it.

I don't think the gaskets are labeled for 4.8/5.3 I think all ls1 gaskets will work. you have the choice of graphite, cosmetic MLS, LS9. Stock is 0.051" thick if you go with anything thinner it will bumb compression, but you will most likely need a push rod length checker for shorter pushrods.

The rockers just get bolted back on and torqued to 22-25ftlbs, which is nice compared to old school chevy motors were you have to check the lash on each one.

The Gm bolts are around 25-30 and ARP are around $250-270