Help decide
#1
Spent alot of time researching on here and just not finding what I need.
My goal is to have my truck in the 12's N/A. I know its a big bite to take but I'm not really looking to trade my truck for a RCSB cause I'm close to being paid off and dont really want another note. Anyways what I'm getting to is I have two routes to go. I have my 5.3 in my truck and I have a 6.0 that I bought for a previous build. The 5.3 would benefit me if I could get it to the 12's but I know the 6.0 would take less work to get to 12's. The 6.0 only had 30k miles on it but the Escalade had flipped and got water in the cylinder and hydrolocked. The people tried to crank the engine and snapped the connecting rod mid-way and the end of the rod came back around and put a small gash at the bottom of cylinder wall #1. Now this gash stopped somewhere around an inch up. (Didn't make it to water jacket) I had people tell me the block is fine and use it but just don't know. So I would rebuild it with new bearings and ARP rod bolts, stock bottom end, good heads and cam or save some cash and put good heads and cam on the 5.3 I'm looking to make this engine swap a one time thing so which way should I go? Thanks to all that help.
My goal is to have my truck in the 12's N/A. I know its a big bite to take but I'm not really looking to trade my truck for a RCSB cause I'm close to being paid off and dont really want another note. Anyways what I'm getting to is I have two routes to go. I have my 5.3 in my truck and I have a 6.0 that I bought for a previous build. The 5.3 would benefit me if I could get it to the 12's but I know the 6.0 would take less work to get to 12's. The 6.0 only had 30k miles on it but the Escalade had flipped and got water in the cylinder and hydrolocked. The people tried to crank the engine and snapped the connecting rod mid-way and the end of the rod came back around and put a small gash at the bottom of cylinder wall #1. Now this gash stopped somewhere around an inch up. (Didn't make it to water jacket) I had people tell me the block is fine and use it but just don't know. So I would rebuild it with new bearings and ARP rod bolts, stock bottom end, good heads and cam or save some cash and put good heads and cam on the 5.3 I'm looking to make this engine swap a one time thing so which way should I go? Thanks to all that help.
#2
well if you are on a budget i would just do the 5.3 with a good set of heads and a nice cam...
but if money is not really an issue i would go ahead and do the 6.0 have the crank check and if its still good use the stock crank... depending on how deep that gash is i would go ahead and bore it .030 with some forged internals...
like you said... you want this to be a one time thing so those are my two opinions on what i would do...
good luck with the build man
but if money is not really an issue i would go ahead and do the 6.0 have the crank check and if its still good use the stock crank... depending on how deep that gash is i would go ahead and bore it .030 with some forged internals...
like you said... you want this to be a one time thing so those are my two opinions on what i would do...
good luck with the build man
#3
I'm not really on a budget, Just want to make my goals and not have to do it twice to get there. I've done that too many times before and wasted too much money so I just want to go the right route the first time. If I can accomplish my goals of 12's with the 5.3 with heads and cam then I'm set. I sold the 6.0 to my brother a while back but he hasn't done anything with it so that's why I used it as an option. This truck isn't my daily driver so I'm open to any considerations on cam and heads. I will still need it to be streetable though. Any suggestions? Thanks
#4
well doing the 6.0 bored 0.30 to a 370 would be my choice...
have a custom ground cam done... some L92 or 243 heads would work as well...
fast 92/92 or the new LSXrt intake...
if you still want it streetable i'd do a 4L80e behind that as well
this gonna be an N/A motor?...
have a custom ground cam done... some L92 or 243 heads would work as well...
fast 92/92 or the new LSXrt intake...
if you still want it streetable i'd do a 4L80e behind that as well
this gonna be an N/A motor?...
#5
Yeah it's going to be N/A. If I did bore to 0.30 and get the new pistons and rods could I re use the crank or would it need to be replaced. I know the setup would need to be balanced. I will get pictures of the block tomorrow to see if anyone has any doubts on me being able to use it.
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#9
If you're not on a budget, a used LQ block is not too expensive, and i wouldn't be keeping that one. that mother isn't gouged or scraped, it's MISSING a piece! it may not be far into the bore but it's still a compromised cylinder. i wouldn't try to use it, i'd find a used LQ block and go from there. it's not like you wouldn't be paying for machining on this one either so a new block wouldn't increase the cost by much but would increase your faith in the engine's durability considerably.






