got the new engine in, now truck wont start!!
Sep 29, 2007 | 04:24 PM
#1
got the new engine in, now truck wont start!!
well the truck wont start. the lights come on. after a few times of me trying to start the truck it finally kicked on. but after i turned it off it wouldnt start again. i just turn the key and then nothing happens. thought maybe the starter was bad but autozone said it was fine. i changed the starter relay and it kicked on and then after i turned if off again, it wouldnt start. so i guess something is eating up the relays. any clue of how i can fix this? thanks fellas
Sep 29, 2007 | 10:32 PM
#3
I second the ground issue.
Check the location of each ground and make sure they are in the right places.
Make sure all sensor connections are all the way on.
Put a good charge on your battery and give it shot.
Check the location of each ground and make sure they are in the right places.
Make sure all sensor connections are all the way on.
Put a good charge on your battery and give it shot.
Sep 30, 2007 | 08:45 AM
#5
Don't be so quick to blame the relay. Relays are highly reliable so much so I'll be willing to bet you wasted you money buying a replacement. Did you verify that the relay was faulty using a DVOM before you laid down your hard earned cash? I doubt it.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
Sep 30, 2007 | 09:57 AM
#6
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,205
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From: Lake Conroe Texas
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Don't be so quick to blame the relay. Relays are highly reliable so much so I'll be willing to bet you wasted you money buying a replacement. Did you verify that the relay was faulty using a DVOM before you laid down your hard earned cash? I doubt it.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
The relay was replaced with an equivalent from another slot, so no "hard earned cash" was spent. You just lost that bet.
Won't start, won't crank - he explained that he turned the key and nothing happens. I think that was sufficient or would you rather he draw a picture for you?
I'm sure your input is appreciated, however the attitude of 'god' is not.
Sep 30, 2007 | 10:10 AM
#7
Originally Posted by dry_kill
well the truck wont start. the lights come on. after a few times of me trying to start the truck it finally kicked on. but after i turned it off it wouldnt start again. i just turn the key and then nothing happens. thought maybe the starter was bad but autozone said it was fine. i changed the starter relay and it kicked on and then after i turned if off again, it wouldnt start. so i guess something is eating up the relays. any clue of how i can fix this? thanks fellas
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Sep 30, 2007 | 02:22 PM
#9
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Don't be so quick to blame the relay. Relays are highly reliable so much so I'll be willing to bet you wasted you money buying a replacement. Did you verify that the relay was faulty using a DVOM before you laid down your hard earned cash? I doubt it.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
You say the engine won't start, but are you describing the fault improperly? Did you really mean to say the engine won't CRANK? Starting and cranking are two distinct functions. Two things have to happen for your engine to start. The starter motor must spin the crank and there must still be sufficient current left in the battery to fire the spark plugs while the engine is turning so the engine can run on its' own without the starter motor. Are you having trouble with the first part: cranking? If so you can get an assistant to put their finger on the starter relay as you turn the key switch to the START position. Does your helper feel the relay pick? If not you need a schematic to troubleshoot the problem. Your starter motor couldn't be the problem because AutoZone told you is was OK and they don't lie, right? If it does crank you need to look at the 3 basics required for combustion: spark, fuel and compression. Grounds are very important, but faulty grounds usually cause erratic, intermittent problem. Wierd thing is your engine starts on the first try then fails on the second. That symptom is worth some thought. Ground straps have to be clean and tight on both ends. This ain't rocket science.
Sep 30, 2007 | 03:17 PM
#10
Originally Posted by dry_kill
haha came on a little strong there. no i didnt buy a new relay, i had one left over that the dealership had given me for my alarm if i wanted to take the kill switch off. lol anyways i know of the ground on the front of the truck that connects to the frame in the middle of the engine towards the front. its on right. there are also 2 other grounds on the bottom of the engine on the driver side kind of close to the power steering pump. those are both on tightly. next there is one braided line that connects to the back of the engine to the firewall. here is where it gets tricky. that wire as well as one more ground that originally hooked up the the back of my 4.8 do not have holes to attach to on the ls1. so what i did was take both of those grounds and tightened them on the switch that is on the back of the engine right behind the valley cover. i want to say the screw i used to hold them down is that same screw that holds down my camshaft positioning sensor. its the switch right next to the oil temp swicth. do you all think that have these 2 grounds connected to the same hole may have caused the problem?
Yep. Put them to a header bolt - one per side (or leave one where it is and move one). For some reason these trucks SUCK for grounds. Also make sure the rear straps go to seperate studs in the fire wall -- there are 3 -- 1 for the hood, 1 right next to it, and 1 on the pass side in the little relief behind the intake manifold.