assembling 408 stroker
#1
Does anyone have any tips for assembling my stroker? I've never built an engine before and would like to save the extra money I'd pay to assemble the motor for other parts. I had a very reputable shop here in Houston do my machine work (bore and hone and line hone) also had them blueprint and balance my rotating assembly as well as measure for main and rod bearings. So from there I would imagine all I should have to do is bolt everything together and torque to spec right? As far as the piston rings go that seems fairly easy as long as you have the proper tools to measure and cut. What do you guys think should I pay someone to assemble it or will I be fine assembling it myself following all the proper procedures? Any tips for assembling would be greatly appreciated
#3
#4
I just rebuilt my ls2. Just do as told take your time and get a service manual. It will help on torque specs and procedures. If u get stumped ask for help. And use good assembly lube.
Like i said i just built my ls2 and ive put 2k on it so far without a hiccup ☺
Like i said i just built my ls2 and ive put 2k on it so far without a hiccup ☺
#5
I have a pretty good book that goes step by step I will have that close by. I just ordered the tools to file piston rings and measure for proper gap. I'm running wiseco pistons I believe they recommend a .021 gap or something like that. What gap should I be running on a boosted 408
#6
I found most people are running
0.022 - 0.026 on top
0.024 - 0.028 on 2nd ring
I'm sure the range is based on the pistons recommendations, so if they are saying 0.021 then maybe 0.022 top and 0.024 for 2nd ring.
The more on point the tune is the slightly tighter they can be.
0.022 - 0.026 on top
0.024 - 0.028 on 2nd ring
I'm sure the range is based on the pistons recommendations, so if they are saying 0.021 then maybe 0.022 top and 0.024 for 2nd ring.
The more on point the tune is the slightly tighter they can be.
#7
I found most people are running
0.022 - 0.026 on top
0.024 - 0.028 on 2nd ring
I'm sure the range is based on the pistons recommendations, so if they are saying 0.021 then maybe 0.022 top and 0.024 for 2nd ring.
The more on point the tune is the slightly tighter they can be.
0.022 - 0.026 on top
0.024 - 0.028 on 2nd ring
I'm sure the range is based on the pistons recommendations, so if they are saying 0.021 then maybe 0.022 top and 0.024 for 2nd ring.
The more on point the tune is the slightly tighter they can be.
any reccomendations for a torque wrench?
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#8
You have 4 choices for styles
1 Beam style - least expensive
2 Click adjustable
3 Dial gauge
4 Digital electronic - most expensive
I have two snap on dial gauge one is like 1.5ft and the other is 2.5 or 3 ft.
I like having two..... one for smaller less tq bolts and one for head bolts/studs
I like the click gauges also as I feel like with my dial gauge there could be some slight human error on the read out, if I shake/bounce or something like that.
1 Beam style - least expensive
2 Click adjustable
3 Dial gauge
4 Digital electronic - most expensive
I have two snap on dial gauge one is like 1.5ft and the other is 2.5 or 3 ft.
I like having two..... one for smaller less tq bolts and one for head bolts/studs
I like the click gauges also as I feel like with my dial gauge there could be some slight human error on the read out, if I shake/bounce or something like that.
#10
I use a cheap harbor freight one. Works for me. Your pistons should have a specified ring gap per bore diameter. Thin they should specify larger gaps for boost and nitrous. Usually 24-26 top and 26-28 second for boost or nitrous. Shoot for .020-.025 mains and rods and it should live a long time. Also check what rings u running. They make a hell fire ring pack by speed pro thats a badass set. Research them.



Just take your time and triple check everything!