About to do cam swap, need some info!!!
#23
Staging Lane
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
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I would assume the OPs truck has over 100k
Whats the rule of thumb on lifters? Ive heard some say that if you have over a certain mileage, to change the lifters? Any truth to this? Or anything else to change/be aware of in higher mileage trucks before a cam swap?
Whats the rule of thumb on lifters? Ive heard some say that if you have over a certain mileage, to change the lifters? Any truth to this? Or anything else to change/be aware of in higher mileage trucks before a cam swap?
Last edited by 85mcss; 03-11-2010 at 05:48 PM.
#25
Ok i have been looking for the cheapest place to buy my crank bolt and i happened to call arp and he told me that part #234-2503 was the same length as the stock bolt. I thought the reason for getting it was because it was longer? He said the bolt for the ls7 is longer but didnt think it would fit in mine. Any ideas? He honestly told me to save my money and buy a oem one. I deffinatly want a new one just want to get the right one u know.
#28
PT's Slowest Truck
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I'm almost 100% sure that the valve seals that you need don't include the seat...I bought a set for my truck a few years back and that's how they came...and, IIRC, when I got my 317's back from WCCH, they included all of the old parts and the seals were just the seals, no seats.
#29
PT's Slowest Truck
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On higher mileage engines, I'd be inclined to replace the timing chain, which requires removing the oil pump, so I'd change that also. The oil pump is where it gets tricky, since nobody that I know of removes the oil pan to replace it, only drops it down. Many a wrencher has pinched the oil pump o-ring upon installation since it's such a PITA to do with the engine in the trunk and the oil pan on. FWIW, many of the same guys who did the 150K cam swaps left their original timing chain and oil pump alone and didn't have any problems...wish I could remember who they were, but I'm sure that they were members here since PT.net is where I now get most of my info
#30
I got a brand new stock bolt, could i just get a longer bolt of the same size but a tad longer from the hardware store and use that to pull the pulley back on then take it out and install my new oem bolt to torque specs? That would fix any chance of stripping the crank right?