carolinaz71

2001 5.3

black04

iTrader: (15)

Pretty sure those are the 1 piece ones but someone would need to confirm.

85mcss

iTrader: (2)

I would assume the OPs truck has over 100k

Whats the rule of thumb on lifters? Ive heard some say that if you have over a certain mileage, to change the lifters? Any truth to this? Or anything else to change/be aware of in higher mileage trucks before a cam swap?

carolinaz71

Yea think ur right, even if it doesnt have one piece seals in it could i just replace them with the one piece that includes the seat or will it not accept them?

carolinaz71

Ok i have been looking for the cheapest place to buy my crank bolt and i happened to call arp and he told me that part #234-2503 was the same length as the stock bolt. I thought the reason for getting it was because it was longer? He said the bolt for the ls7 is longer but didnt think it would fit in mine. Any ideas? He honestly told me to save my money and buy a oem one. I deffinatly want a new one just want to get the right one u know.

black04

iTrader: (15)

The arp bolt is longer but comes with a thick washer. You can pull the balancer up without the washer and then take the bolt out, put the washer on and torque it to spec. Dont remember the part number tho.

carolinaz71

Gotcha just called tsp they said the same thing, thanks

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

I'm almost 100% sure that the valve seals that you need don't include the seat...I bought a set for my truck a few years back and that's how they came...and, IIRC, when I got my 317's back from WCCH, they included all of the old parts and the seals were just the seals, no seats.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

No real rule of thumb on the GENIII engines...guys have done cam swaps at over 150K that I'm aware of with no problems. Remember, to replace the lifters on these engines you have to remove the heads.

On higher mileage engines, I'd be inclined to replace the timing chain, which requires removing the oil pump, so I'd change that also. The oil pump is where it gets tricky, since nobody that I know of removes the oil pan to replace it, only drops it down. Many a wrencher has pinched the oil pump o-ring upon installation since it's such a PITA to do with the engine in the trunk and the oil pan on. FWIW, many of the same guys who did the 150K cam swaps left their original timing chain and oil pump alone and didn't have any problems...wish I could remember who they were, but I'm sure that they were members here since PT.net is where I now get most of my info

carolinaz71

I got a brand new stock bolt, could i just get a longer bolt of the same size but a tad longer from the hardware store and use that to pull the pulley back on then take it out and install my new oem bolt to torque specs? That would fix any chance of stripping the crank right?