6.0 build/swap
#11
Thanks for the insight gents. I am pretty happy with how my 5.3 drove around town and towed as it is so I’m sure the 6.0 will be even better with more displacement and more compression. That’s why I even mentioned the stage 4 cam, in my mind im thinking that the 6.0 would still behave pretty decent with a larger cam as compared to my 5.3.
What is you guys take on lifters? I know we have all read the horror stories of spending a ton of $$ on a build just for a lifter to take dump and pump metal through a motor. I have the pushrod length checker from my previous build. Im still kinda leaning toward the Morel “drop in” lifters for their price and the luck I have had with them in my current 5.3. Since I have been out of the loop for several years Idk if anything comparable has came out that might be a better lofter to run. Im not sure i need to step up to a link bar yet.
What is you guys take on lifters? I know we have all read the horror stories of spending a ton of $$ on a build just for a lifter to take dump and pump metal through a motor. I have the pushrod length checker from my previous build. Im still kinda leaning toward the Morel “drop in” lifters for their price and the luck I have had with them in my current 5.3. Since I have been out of the loop for several years Idk if anything comparable has came out that might be a better lofter to run. Im not sure i need to step up to a link bar yet.
#13
The LS7 are no longer genuine GM and only Delphi repros, have heard some bad things but I am running them
Saying that though, I see a new GMPP part number for lifters on LS motors, I have not heard of anyone using them but I would be very interested in seeing what those look like.
Saying that though, I see a new GMPP part number for lifters on LS motors, I have not heard of anyone using them but I would be very interested in seeing what those look like.
#15
I went from a stock 2008 5.3 with a BTR truck 2 cam to a 6.0 forged rotating assembly with 10.4 compression and the same cam.
The cam is “smaller” and lost the idle sound I liked BUT it is much more fun to drive where I had to wait to 2500 for the cam profile to really shine, the 6.0 has power everywhere.
Now that I’m wrapping up a rebuilt 4l60 again I’m waiting to see how this Summit ProLS converter acts. It’s advertised as 24-2700
The cam is “smaller” and lost the idle sound I liked BUT it is much more fun to drive where I had to wait to 2500 for the cam profile to really shine, the 6.0 has power everywhere.
Now that I’m wrapping up a rebuilt 4l60 again I’m waiting to see how this Summit ProLS converter acts. It’s advertised as 24-2700
#16
FYI... If you like the way the cam sounds and drives in your 5.3 you will be sadly disappointed with it in a 6.0. I will be the party pooper and tell you that the 6.0 will need its own own specific cam profile to give you what you had with the 5.3...
#17
you must be fun at social events
#18
I went from a stock 2008 5.3 with a BTR truck 2 cam to a 6.0 forged rotating assembly with 10.4 compression and the same cam.
The cam is “smaller” and lost the idle sound I liked BUT it is much more fun to drive where I had to wait to 2500 for the cam profile to really shine, the 6.0 has power everywhere.
Now that I’m wrapping up a rebuilt 4l60 again I’m waiting to see how this Summit ProLS converter acts. It’s advertised as 24-2700
The cam is “smaller” and lost the idle sound I liked BUT it is much more fun to drive where I had to wait to 2500 for the cam profile to really shine, the 6.0 has power everywhere.
Now that I’m wrapping up a rebuilt 4l60 again I’m waiting to see how this Summit ProLS converter acts. It’s advertised as 24-2700
lol i can appreciate the heads up
#20
OP,
You've received some great advice from the community. With your stall and goals we'd probably stick with your current cam to start with. It might not have the "chop" but it'll still have a noticeable idle with its 0* intake valve opening. It seems that your two main concerns are driveability and towing. You're already happy with this cam in a 5.3. The added displacement of the 6.0 will help across the entire range. A 215* @ .050 cam can net around +50 whp on a stock 6.0. With your worked over heads and planned compression this will be quite a change from the 5.3.
If anything we could see our Pro LS Truck stage 2 high-lift SUM-8720R1 being used but we'd start with the current cam. Specs on the 8720R1 are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2. This is our go-two cam for the guy with a 6.0 that wants his truck hopped up some but still wants good manners, towing, and the ability to use the stock converter. In a 6.0 it'll have a noticeable idle similar to what your current cam will be. It's not much larger than the current cam but the added lift is what we really like. That added lift will improve power/torque across the range. Plus with wanting to stay with the current converter this is right about the limit before needing a 2,500+ stall. It will be happy out to 6,500+ with our SUM-174004 .600" lift beehives.
Getting back to compression and pistons. We have our 2618 forged Pro LS pistons. We noticed you want to be around 11-11.5:1. With our 2cc flat tops you'd be right around 11.4:1 with a .051" head gasket and your 59cc heads. One thing to note with our Pro LS pistons is they sit .005" in the hole with the factory 9.240" deck height. Not knowing the year of the 6.0 or what rods you have in it there are two possibilities for pistons.
- Gen III rods with .945" press-fit pins which would take our SUM-3269454030-2 pistons.
- Gen IV rods with .943" floating pins that would use our SUM-3269434030-2 pistons.
At this compression range and towing you'll want to make sure the tune is spot on and maybe even a bit conservative on timing. It would be a good idea to do some data logging while towing looking for knock. That's where you might have to dial back the timing. To be on the safe side we'd keep a bottle of octane booster handy.
Onto lifters. The Morel drop-ins are a great lifter. If you wanted fresh new lifters we offer the Morel-7717 drop-ins as SUM-HT217-16. They are available in our SUM-HTLSKIT3 lifter and tray kit.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
You've received some great advice from the community. With your stall and goals we'd probably stick with your current cam to start with. It might not have the "chop" but it'll still have a noticeable idle with its 0* intake valve opening. It seems that your two main concerns are driveability and towing. You're already happy with this cam in a 5.3. The added displacement of the 6.0 will help across the entire range. A 215* @ .050 cam can net around +50 whp on a stock 6.0. With your worked over heads and planned compression this will be quite a change from the 5.3.
If anything we could see our Pro LS Truck stage 2 high-lift SUM-8720R1 being used but we'd start with the current cam. Specs on the 8720R1 are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2. This is our go-two cam for the guy with a 6.0 that wants his truck hopped up some but still wants good manners, towing, and the ability to use the stock converter. In a 6.0 it'll have a noticeable idle similar to what your current cam will be. It's not much larger than the current cam but the added lift is what we really like. That added lift will improve power/torque across the range. Plus with wanting to stay with the current converter this is right about the limit before needing a 2,500+ stall. It will be happy out to 6,500+ with our SUM-174004 .600" lift beehives.
Getting back to compression and pistons. We have our 2618 forged Pro LS pistons. We noticed you want to be around 11-11.5:1. With our 2cc flat tops you'd be right around 11.4:1 with a .051" head gasket and your 59cc heads. One thing to note with our Pro LS pistons is they sit .005" in the hole with the factory 9.240" deck height. Not knowing the year of the 6.0 or what rods you have in it there are two possibilities for pistons.
- Gen III rods with .945" press-fit pins which would take our SUM-3269454030-2 pistons.
- Gen IV rods with .943" floating pins that would use our SUM-3269434030-2 pistons.
At this compression range and towing you'll want to make sure the tune is spot on and maybe even a bit conservative on timing. It would be a good idea to do some data logging while towing looking for knock. That's where you might have to dial back the timing. To be on the safe side we'd keep a bottle of octane booster handy.
Onto lifters. The Morel drop-ins are a great lifter. If you wanted fresh new lifters we offer the Morel-7717 drop-ins as SUM-HT217-16. They are available in our SUM-HTLSKIT3 lifter and tray kit.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!









