2 questoins about oil pick up tube and timing chain.
#1
question 1
Can the pick up tube bolt be removed with out dropping the oil pan? Can I disconnect the oil pump and pull the pick up tube out a few inches, or is the pick up tube bolted near the rear of the motor as well. Will this damage the pick up tube?
Question 2
Can the timing crank gear and cam gear be reused if not damaged? Just put a new chain on or should the go ahead and be replaced with the chain as well?
100,000+miles
Can the pick up tube bolt be removed with out dropping the oil pan? Can I disconnect the oil pump and pull the pick up tube out a few inches, or is the pick up tube bolted near the rear of the motor as well. Will this damage the pick up tube?
Question 2
Can the timing crank gear and cam gear be reused if not damaged? Just put a new chain on or should the go ahead and be replaced with the chain as well?
100,000+miles
#5
Aklowrider, Perfect pic thanks. I guess the old statement a pic is worth a 1000 words, is true haha
Will a jaw puller work on a ASP under drive pulley as well?
The puller I used from O'reillys wont work.
How do I press the crank gear on? Use a brass tube and beat it on with a hammer?
Will a jaw puller work on a ASP under drive pulley as well?
The puller I used from O'reillys wont work.
How do I press the crank gear on? Use a brass tube and beat it on with a hammer?
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#8
I unbolted the pan to drop it a little to get access to the oil pickup bolt. Put a rag in there so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall into the pan.
Use a 2-3 jaw puller to remove the sprocket. You might need a smaller one that can grab onto the sprocket teeth, or grind down the hooks a little. There isn't much space between the gear and the front main cap to get the puller's hooks in.
I believe you need a balancer puller to remove the ASP pulley. It's similar to a jaw puller but actually bolts to the pulley, and it a helluva lot easier to use. You might have to go to the hardware store to get the correct size/length bolts.
I used the old crank sprocket to help hammer on the new one. You can see/hear it bottom out on the crank snout.
Use a 2-3 jaw puller to remove the sprocket. You might need a smaller one that can grab onto the sprocket teeth, or grind down the hooks a little. There isn't much space between the gear and the front main cap to get the puller's hooks in.
I believe you need a balancer puller to remove the ASP pulley. It's similar to a jaw puller but actually bolts to the pulley, and it a helluva lot easier to use. You might have to go to the hardware store to get the correct size/length bolts.
I used the old crank sprocket to help hammer on the new one. You can see/hear it bottom out on the crank snout.
#9
It is possible to get the pump bolt out without dropping the pan, however it will be tedious and take a while. Dropping the pan will make it easier to access. I didnt drop the pan, but used a gearwrench to loosen the bolt, tied a knot around the head of the bolt with dental floss, and then loosed the rest of the way. If the bolt falls, you can just pull the floss.
#10
i tried dropping the pan an inch or two, fought with that damn bolt, fought with pulling the tube out of the pump (trying not to crinkle the tube), and fought with trying to push that bastard back up in there.
After it was all back together with a new cam, I was so paranoid with my new valve clatter that I just knew I had nicked that damn o-ring.
I ended up pulling the pan off and the pickup tube to verify the 0-ring condition.
From now on, I'll just drop the pan and loosen the rest of the mounting bolts.
After it was all back together with a new cam, I was so paranoid with my new valve clatter that I just knew I had nicked that damn o-ring.
I ended up pulling the pan off and the pickup tube to verify the 0-ring condition.
From now on, I'll just drop the pan and loosen the rest of the mounting bolts.
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Ferocity02
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Jul 17, 2015 07:05 PM








