GM Alternator regulated charging control?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 54
From: somewhere in TX
Using HP tuners are there any tables available to tweak that control the damm regulated charging control for the alternator.
I hate that it essentially turns the alternator off and it is causing problems with my system here and there. The dual battery's greatly helped reduce the little gremlin but it's still aggarvating.
If it's really cranked the bass amps shut off or go into protect mode on low voltage until the alternator has a chance to ramp up and make some juice. I understand you can put it into tow haul but, thats a PITA and it even takes several miles before the alternator will ramp up to required output.
Thanks
I hate that it essentially turns the alternator off and it is causing problems with my system here and there. The dual battery's greatly helped reduce the little gremlin but it's still aggarvating.
If it's really cranked the bass amps shut off or go into protect mode on low voltage until the alternator has a chance to ramp up and make some juice. I understand you can put it into tow haul but, thats a PITA and it even takes several miles before the alternator will ramp up to required output.
Thanks
#3
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 54
From: somewhere in TX
Nah it's putting out just fine. But I have 2 1001/1 JL's for the subs and once the alternator backs off to gas mileage mode if you through in some really bass heavy tracks they get cranky with the voltage drop until the alternator ramps up. I've been tolerating it and did dual battery's which helped a bunch.
But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.
This is a 2011 w 6.2
But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.
This is a 2011 w 6.2
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 54
From: somewhere in TX
If you unplug the ampload sensor by the battery it bypasses all the RVC crap and lets the pcm have full control over alternator charging. It has been two weeks and has worked flawlessly and the sub amps love it now.
#6
Nah it's putting out just fine. But I have 2 1001/1 JL's for the subs and once the alternator backs off to gas mileage mode if you through in some really bass heavy tracks they get cranky with the voltage drop until the alternator ramps up. I've been tolerating it and did dual battery's which helped a bunch.
But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.
This is a 2011 w 6.2
But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.
This is a 2011 w 6.2
What's the voltage output of the alternator?
What batteries do you have?
Where do you get the remote wire that turns on the amps(stereo or switch)?
Nvm ,just noticed your last post.
Last edited by 08cheyennesc; Oct 18, 2011 at 08:42 PM. Reason: just notice
Trending Topics
#8
I'm intrigued by this... please go into further detail.
#9
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 54
From: somewhere in TX
Unplug amp load sensor and pcm uses standard method to control charging due to a code set in bcm because it doesn't have a amp draw input. It bypasses the gas mileage mode in the pcm. Gas mileage mode turns off the alternator under certain cruise conditions to save CAFE gas mileage. However, in order for the pcm to do this it must have a amp load input so that it knows the state of charge so it can re enable the alternator when the battery voltage starts to fall excessively due to the alternator being shut off







