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GM Alternator regulated charging control?

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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Default GM Alternator regulated charging control?

Using HP tuners are there any tables available to tweak that control the damm regulated charging control for the alternator.

I hate that it essentially turns the alternator off and it is causing problems with my system here and there. The dual battery's greatly helped reduce the little gremlin but it's still aggarvating.

If it's really cranked the bass amps shut off or go into protect mode on low voltage until the alternator has a chance to ramp up and make some juice. I understand you can put it into tow haul but, thats a PITA and it even takes several miles before the alternator will ramp up to required output.

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Sounds like your alternator is about to completely fail if you are having this many issues.
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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Nah it's putting out just fine. But I have 2 1001/1 JL's for the subs and once the alternator backs off to gas mileage mode if you through in some really bass heavy tracks they get cranky with the voltage drop until the alternator ramps up. I've been tolerating it and did dual battery's which helped a bunch.

But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.

This is a 2011 w 6.2
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 06:21 AM
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I believe lightning audio sells a 1 farad capicator for this problem, I think they used to be called lightning caps or something like that. Maybe something to look into.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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If you unplug the ampload sensor by the battery it bypasses all the RVC crap and lets the pcm have full control over alternator charging. It has been two weeks and has worked flawlessly and the sub amps love it now.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 01WS6/tamu
Nah it's putting out just fine. But I have 2 1001/1 JL's for the subs and once the alternator backs off to gas mileage mode if you through in some really bass heavy tracks they get cranky with the voltage drop until the alternator ramps up. I've been tolerating it and did dual battery's which helped a bunch.

But for a few brief seconds if you really hit it with some heavy tracks my digital fluke at the batteries will read between 8.5-10 volts then they'll shut down.

This is a 2011 w 6.2
You mean 2 1000/1s right?
What's the voltage output of the alternator?
What batteries do you have?
Where do you get the remote wire that turns on the amps(stereo or switch)?

Nvm ,just noticed your last post.

Last edited by 08cheyennesc; Oct 18, 2011 at 08:42 PM. Reason: just notice
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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13-15 volts// dual optimas//amp turn on is from pioneer nav unit. yes dual 1000/1 JL's
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 01WS6/tamu
If you unplug the ampload sensor by the battery it bypasses all the RVC crap and lets the pcm have full control over alternator charging. It has been two weeks and has worked flawlessly and the sub amps love it now.
I'm intrigued by this... please go into further detail.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Unplug amp load sensor and pcm uses standard method to control charging due to a code set in bcm because it doesn't have a amp draw input. It bypasses the gas mileage mode in the pcm. Gas mileage mode turns off the alternator under certain cruise conditions to save CAFE gas mileage. However, in order for the pcm to do this it must have a amp load input so that it knows the state of charge so it can re enable the alternator when the battery voltage starts to fall excessively due to the alternator being shut off
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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I need to find this wire... I'm tired of my lights randomly dimming
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