I finally took the down time and changed the gears in the rear of my truck, from stock 3.23 to 3.73 ( i know it isnt much of a change, but noticable, and they were free ) Setup was a bitch but its been a while since ive done it.. I changed the Servos, corvette 2nd and billet 4th.. Shifting is great now.. Then i made the call, drove to the shop and had Jesse at Wait4MePerformance tune the truck.. Holy crap what a difference.. The truck isnt modded too much so he really didnt have much to work with but, Damn the difference is amazing, it will officially blaze the tires and chirp second, i am actually getting better mileage too..

Truck has stock box, 4" homemade intake plumbing.. Flowmaster 44 muffler thru cats still.. 3.73 gears, vette servo, 4th servo, and thats it..

Again the tune was amazing and the price was awesome.. Give him a call, easy to work with..

My deal is now that it actually will get out of its own way what is next??

I have the 98 Vette LS1 sitting on the engine stand?? Do i build a stroked 383and have my stock 243 heads worked on and install that combo with cam and little stall? Leave it stock displacement and add a set of pistons to bump up comp?

Would headers and a stall help the little 4.8?? I DD this truck and just like the light to light stuff.. Plus wasting a honda now and then is fun..

Just looking for peoples opinion.. Thanks

 

Yes the Long tubes, ORY will help, as will a higher stall.
All mine has right now is a tune, and the LTs. Both helped out a lot. Next I'll be going with 4.10 gears, and I have a TB stall I'm debating putting in. I'll probably do the gears and roll like that for a bit though.

Glad to hear you're enjoying it.

Also, I think youdbe suprised what a LS1 with a cam will do. You may find that you don't need to increase the displacement.

 

I was planning to do as many upgrades as i could afford while the 4.8 was still in it.. That way when the LS comes along i can just swap in, tune and roll.. dont like to be without my truck too long..
My tune is already set as though i have headers, so i will be doing that soon.. Dont want the ORY, will have a local exhaust guy do true duals.. Makes that cam sound that much better..

Thinking that i may start tearing into the LS and see whats up.. I am going to rebuild it just to ensure it is good to go reguardless. I am not sure of its history..

Thanks..

BTW what stall is a TBSS convertor??

 

TBSS converter is a lil looser than you stock stall. it wont handle being locked at WOT. if your looking for a tight stall id go with a 2600-2800. i have a 3200 in my CC an i love it as a DD an im running 14.4 @ 94.59 with just LT/OR-y/Magnaflow/CAI/3200 stall/Servos/Truckshop Tune/3:42/G80/17" street tires

i dont like true duals, you lose back pressure on these LS motors imo. if you do true duals go with an H pipe or an X pipe. itll help keep some back pressure.

good luck man keep us posted

 

also that 98 LS1 isnt set up for your current ECM therefore youll need to press on a 58x tooth reluctor wheel an change over your front cover. i may be missing other things i dunno.

 

I agree with kennif about the true dials, but hey, to each his own. As far as the tbss stall, it would stall lower in your truck than the tbss. The tb stall to use is out of the 6cyl tb. It'll stall higher behind a v8 than it does behind the 6cyl. I'm not sure what it would stall to behind a 4.8, but I think it's about 24-2700 behind the 5.3's

 

The LS1 block is a Gen III. It can be made to work as mention above.
-add 4.8l front timing cover
-add front cam sensor
-add 58x crank trigger and sensor
-add the side mounted 4.8L Gen IV knock sensors

Or you could sell the LS1 motor and bore and stroke the 4.8L and make a 383 out of it!

I would save up and do the L92/6l90 swap!

 

I tore down the LS1.. It is very low mile.. As in never been started.. cylinders are clean.. Unfortunately for me though it is a 98 block, which is worthless to anyone who would want to buy it.. So i am stuck with it.. I am going to leave it the stock displacement.. Have the crank trigger wheel changed for the 58 tooth unit.. Put back together with arp hardware and a set of pistons to bump comp ratio up to around 10.5:1 and enable me to run a shot of go go juice.. Remove the engine from the truck, swap "tins" and send heads to be ported.. Add cam, headers, exhaust, and **** all at same time, then take and have tuned again.. Should run just fine.. If i can make 450 HP (at crank) that would be awesome.. doubt that will happen though.. But unfortunately the house is in need of some work so the tax money is already spent!!!

Oh well.. Such is life..