installed my pacesetter L.Ts
#1
sooo after reading 07NNBSVMAX post about cheap the headers were (imo) i jumped on them and order them also for $371 that were coated from amazon..and if i signed up for amazon prime u got free shipping...or for $3,99 you could get it next day....sooo ofcourse im i got next day lol...also for $155 i could get the ORY pipe ..soo i got that to.. even tho everyone said it wont work..soo the next day the headers were there..took a couple days to get the ory tho
im not one to do a full wright up on every detail since i did it last week not everything is fresh in my mind..but ive noticed some other asking the same questions i was..and i got alot of different answers..soo heres my oppion on things and a few lil tips ( that i can remeber haha )
my truck has 50k miles on it so most everything came apart pretty fairly easy..atho i was using air to pull everything apart. the instructions say to pull all the 02s out..but theres no need to do it untill u get the whole system off the truck since they all just plug in on pig tails...except the pass side front u cant get the flange for the exaust off as its in the way. so that was the only real problem i ran in to. also many need a ratched wrench to speed things up on removing the factory manifolds but not a must
now that there off..theres alil differance in
as u can see there is NO flange on these headers

now the install of the headers is pretty simple they slide pretty much right in once u pull the lower bolt of the steer shaft out and slide it up..the drivers side drops right in from the top..and the pass slides right up from the bottom pretty simple an extra set of hands does help to start the bolts and hold the header up

now for the O2s on the header..everyone seems to say the drivers side wont work and u will have to weld in another bung with awd...i did not have an issue with this and the drive shaft..i did give the floor pan a good wack with the hammer to make it easier to to bolt the O2 in with out hitting the floor pan.


NOW for the O.R.Y..this is not a just bolt it on system..but will work with a lil tweaking no problem..i read a few people say this will not work because of the trans being a 6speed...and or the crossmember..i see NO reason the trans would affect anything and NO problem at all with the crossmember..the first problem i did have was the driver side was a i couldnt get to slide of the header i think just because of the extra coating...soo i filled the inside of the ory inlet out alil with a air grinder till it slid on alil easyer..but to actually get it in place was another issue as there is plent of room but the angle it has to go isnt possible with the header bolted up..altho there is room where its suppost to be just cant get it there kinda confusing to explain..soo i could either drop the header back down slide the ory on and then put the header back on...ORR i could simply cut down the lengh of the ory sooo i took the easy way and cut it down till the angle was right..i think it was about 2inchs
now the pass side slid right on no issue..now to connect the pass to the driver side..i cut the middle out alil also to make it easyer to install or remove..and just used a sealing ban clamp



now to bolt this up to the factor catback system im not sure if theres any issues or not..as i already have a corsa system .. so for my setup i cut the factory y flang off and welded it to my O.R.Y..i had to get alil creative as they were 2 different sizes and it was about midnight so i couldnt go get an adapter...as it was 3 1/2 and the other was 3in i belive..so i took the inch or so i cut from the drivers side ory that was 3 1/4 i think..and slid that over the 3in..and slide that in to the 3 1/2 and welded it all up haha..and actually it worked perfect.



also just wanted to make fun of the factory welds on the ory..im sure a machine did this..i wasnt impressed with these welds

the last issue i had was the second plug wire on the drivers side does actually touch the header...ive been driving it for a week this way and it hasnt melted..buttt i dont like it..not sure what to do there..im guessing i can find a 45 deg plug wire somewhere..i just dont wanna have to buy a whole damn plug set for one wire
soooo anyways i started it..and it was quiet a bit louder then i was expecting..but with headers no cats and a corsa system..what else would u expect..it sounds amazing tho..no complants there..cold start up..its pretty loud..but once it idles down its nice..and normal drive its a great..once u step in it, it sounds like an angry vette screaming..haha but get up to speed and set the cruise and it quiets down almost to stock it seems..i love that part nooo drone or anything on the highway..so much for keepin it a sleeper as its turning heads now..but i have already got a few complents on how good it sounds
im not one to do a full wright up on every detail since i did it last week not everything is fresh in my mind..but ive noticed some other asking the same questions i was..and i got alot of different answers..soo heres my oppion on things and a few lil tips ( that i can remeber haha )
my truck has 50k miles on it so most everything came apart pretty fairly easy..atho i was using air to pull everything apart. the instructions say to pull all the 02s out..but theres no need to do it untill u get the whole system off the truck since they all just plug in on pig tails...except the pass side front u cant get the flange for the exaust off as its in the way. so that was the only real problem i ran in to. also many need a ratched wrench to speed things up on removing the factory manifolds but not a must
now that there off..theres alil differance in
as u can see there is NO flange on these headers
now the install of the headers is pretty simple they slide pretty much right in once u pull the lower bolt of the steer shaft out and slide it up..the drivers side drops right in from the top..and the pass slides right up from the bottom pretty simple an extra set of hands does help to start the bolts and hold the header up

now for the O2s on the header..everyone seems to say the drivers side wont work and u will have to weld in another bung with awd...i did not have an issue with this and the drive shaft..i did give the floor pan a good wack with the hammer to make it easier to to bolt the O2 in with out hitting the floor pan.


NOW for the O.R.Y..this is not a just bolt it on system..but will work with a lil tweaking no problem..i read a few people say this will not work because of the trans being a 6speed...and or the crossmember..i see NO reason the trans would affect anything and NO problem at all with the crossmember..the first problem i did have was the driver side was a i couldnt get to slide of the header i think just because of the extra coating...soo i filled the inside of the ory inlet out alil with a air grinder till it slid on alil easyer..but to actually get it in place was another issue as there is plent of room but the angle it has to go isnt possible with the header bolted up..altho there is room where its suppost to be just cant get it there kinda confusing to explain..soo i could either drop the header back down slide the ory on and then put the header back on...ORR i could simply cut down the lengh of the ory sooo i took the easy way and cut it down till the angle was right..i think it was about 2inchs
now the pass side slid right on no issue..now to connect the pass to the driver side..i cut the middle out alil also to make it easyer to install or remove..and just used a sealing ban clamp



now to bolt this up to the factor catback system im not sure if theres any issues or not..as i already have a corsa system .. so for my setup i cut the factory y flang off and welded it to my O.R.Y..i had to get alil creative as they were 2 different sizes and it was about midnight so i couldnt go get an adapter...as it was 3 1/2 and the other was 3in i belive..so i took the inch or so i cut from the drivers side ory that was 3 1/4 i think..and slid that over the 3in..and slide that in to the 3 1/2 and welded it all up haha..and actually it worked perfect.



also just wanted to make fun of the factory welds on the ory..im sure a machine did this..i wasnt impressed with these welds


the last issue i had was the second plug wire on the drivers side does actually touch the header...ive been driving it for a week this way and it hasnt melted..buttt i dont like it..not sure what to do there..im guessing i can find a 45 deg plug wire somewhere..i just dont wanna have to buy a whole damn plug set for one wire
soooo anyways i started it..and it was quiet a bit louder then i was expecting..but with headers no cats and a corsa system..what else would u expect..it sounds amazing tho..no complants there..cold start up..its pretty loud..but once it idles down its nice..and normal drive its a great..once u step in it, it sounds like an angry vette screaming..haha but get up to speed and set the cruise and it quiets down almost to stock it seems..i love that part nooo drone or anything on the highway..so much for keepin it a sleeper as its turning heads now..but i have already got a few complents on how good it sounds
#2
Hell yea man! You got a tune for it yet? I'm hoping within 2 weeks I can order autocal
Btw I put my o2's on before I slid them on it and I also didn't have any clearances issues anywhere dshaft, firewall, or frame. Great fit I thought not to mention so shiny
Btw I put my o2's on before I slid them on it and I also didn't have any clearances issues anywhere dshaft, firewall, or frame. Great fit I thought not to mention so shiny
#3
#4
Sweet deal man! Yea I love the thought of autocal but damn is it expensive for just a tune, but with me just starting mods it'll come in handy. I would think with efi live being hpt's competition they would be working in something but yea never know.
#5
i think i paid like like 400ish for my used hp tuners pro that still had credits on it..then i can do any of my own tuning..altho i dont trust my self yet..so il still have zippy do the main tune and i can make small changes as needed with alil help..which im not sure what that will cost on top of it for a fair comparison
ive heard hpt has something similar to autocal in the works..
lol Soon i hope..altho im ready now so not soon enough
#7
i guess it was just wishfull thinking that it was a machine and was going threw a power outage and an earthquake but they kept pushing to get my ory done for me..hahaha
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#8
IIRC its $550 for the autocal with a tune. Ive not had a custom tune yet so its more expensive. Ik blackbear does a discount if youve had a tune with him previously. Yea i was thinking about going ahead and buying hpt but im like you.. i just dont trust myself with that sorta thing.
#9
FYI, the drivers side o2 sensor has been moved in these headers. Mine is at a 90* from the top, directly into the driveshaft. Then again, I bought mine the first month they were out for 600$. As far as the Y pipe... some people don't have access to the tools you and I do. It's not an easy bolt in. I would not suggest these to anyone who doesn't have a sawzall, a welder, and hours of time.
#10
FYI, the drivers side o2 sensor has been moved in these headers. Mine is at a 90* from the top, directly into the driveshaft. Then again, I bought mine the first month they were out for 600$. As far as the Y pipe... some people don't have access to the tools you and I do. It's not an easy bolt in. I would not suggest these to anyone who doesn't have a sawzall, a welder, and hours of time.
also i would agree if u dont have the tools or the time its not a bolt together setup...i own a trucking company so the tools shop and time arnt an issue for me..but i dont have a bender and this had all the correct bends so it worked perfect for me


