Thumping or Knock in Your Steering Wheel?
#81
Thanks to Torque Wrench and PerformanceTrucks.net. 
I actually just bought my 2002 Silverado 2 weeks ago and had the "noise" from Day 1. I liked the truck so much I had decided to "deal with it", but ran across this thread and went ahead and swapped the intermediate shaft...Quiet as a Church Mouse now...
Thanks again for directions, part numbers and advice.

I actually just bought my 2002 Silverado 2 weeks ago and had the "noise" from Day 1. I liked the truck so much I had decided to "deal with it", but ran across this thread and went ahead and swapped the intermediate shaft...Quiet as a Church Mouse now...
Thanks again for directions, part numbers and advice.
#82
Hey 2001c3driver, did you get the pictures of where the plate is. I had my I-shaft changed three times already and it's getting pretty annoying. I told the service department about this plate thing and they said there was none. I really would like to prove thme wrong.
#84
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From: In the Sticks of Virginia
Thanx for the props guys!!! I'm glad my thread has helped some people out. If any of you are having a hard time getting the repair done or finding the correct I-Shaft just PM me and I'll see what I can do for you.
#85
Thanks again for all the info guys ! I picked up the new shaft at my local dealer - he gave it to me for $78 bucks and since I only had this weekend to do it I picked it up instead of going through torque.
The install went pretty smooth - except I could not get to the second top bolt on the gas pedal - I have the adjustable ones and there was no way of getting anything behind there to get to that top nut
So I went and unsnapped the foot heater vent and it gave me enough room to slide the shaft through ( just barely enough room - but it made it ! )
Everything went smooth after that and after a test drive it seems to be working fine now. There is a considerable size diff from the old top yoke and the new design as well as the sliding greases shaft portion - not being lubed. I'll drive some more and update - but so far seems GREAT !
to everyone who has posted their experiences and expertise !
TORQUE -- would you happen to know if they sell the bolt and 'nut' ( i guess it's a nut but looks like a clip attahced to the sides ) to replace the bolt under the hood that is removed when installing the new shaft? I've removed and reinstalled that bolt a number of times in the past when stoking the old shaft as temporary fixes - and I'd like to just go and replace it already b/c it's starting to look like it may start stripping in the future if I have to ever replace/remove it ...
The install went pretty smooth - except I could not get to the second top bolt on the gas pedal - I have the adjustable ones and there was no way of getting anything behind there to get to that top nut

So I went and unsnapped the foot heater vent and it gave me enough room to slide the shaft through ( just barely enough room - but it made it ! )
Everything went smooth after that and after a test drive it seems to be working fine now. There is a considerable size diff from the old top yoke and the new design as well as the sliding greases shaft portion - not being lubed. I'll drive some more and update - but so far seems GREAT !
to everyone who has posted their experiences and expertise !TORQUE -- would you happen to know if they sell the bolt and 'nut' ( i guess it's a nut but looks like a clip attahced to the sides ) to replace the bolt under the hood that is removed when installing the new shaft? I've removed and reinstalled that bolt a number of times in the past when stoking the old shaft as temporary fixes - and I'd like to just go and replace it already b/c it's starting to look like it may start stripping in the future if I have to ever replace/remove it ...
#86
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From: In the Sticks of Virginia
Thanks again for all the info guys ! I picked up the new shaft at my local dealer - he gave it to me for $78 bucks and since I only had this weekend to do it I picked it up instead of going through torque.
The install went pretty smooth - except I could not get to the second top bolt on the gas pedal - I have the adjustable ones and there was no way of getting anything behind there to get to that top nut
So I went and unsnapped the foot heater vent and it gave me enough room to slide the shaft through ( just barely enough room - but it made it ! )
Everything went smooth after that and after a test drive it seems to be working fine now. There is a considerable size diff from the old top yoke and the new design as well as the sliding greases shaft portion - not being lubed. I'll drive some more and update - but so far seems GREAT !
to everyone who has posted their experiences and expertise !
TORQUE -- would you happen to know if they sell the bolt and 'nut' ( i guess it's a nut but looks like a clip attahced to the sides ) to replace the bolt under the hood that is removed when installing the new shaft? I've removed and reinstalled that bolt a number of times in the past when stoking the old shaft as temporary fixes - and I'd like to just go and replace it already b/c it's starting to look like it may start stripping in the future if I have to ever replace/remove it ...
The install went pretty smooth - except I could not get to the second top bolt on the gas pedal - I have the adjustable ones and there was no way of getting anything behind there to get to that top nut

So I went and unsnapped the foot heater vent and it gave me enough room to slide the shaft through ( just barely enough room - but it made it ! )
Everything went smooth after that and after a test drive it seems to be working fine now. There is a considerable size diff from the old top yoke and the new design as well as the sliding greases shaft portion - not being lubed. I'll drive some more and update - but so far seems GREAT !
to everyone who has posted their experiences and expertise !TORQUE -- would you happen to know if they sell the bolt and 'nut' ( i guess it's a nut but looks like a clip attahced to the sides ) to replace the bolt under the hood that is removed when installing the new shaft? I've removed and reinstalled that bolt a number of times in the past when stoking the old shaft as temporary fixes - and I'd like to just go and replace it already b/c it's starting to look like it may start stripping in the future if I have to ever replace/remove it ...
Hey brotha'....they do in fact sell the bolt and nut. They have an upgraded design that the bolt has an anti-rotatrional paddle with an internal thread locker. The 2 part numbers are 11514597 for the nut and 26058124 for the bolt.
#87
I got to drive the truck today some more after doing to the swap and .... No more clunk -- BUT -- the steering wheel is now tilted to the right about 5-10 degrees when then truck is driving in a straight line
It doesn't pull in either direction and I don;t have to force it - but the steering center now seems to be off a bit.... any ideas ?I was going to line up the front tires straight, unattach the intermediate sterring shaft bolt from the inside ( steering shaft yoke ) ,, and then move the steering wheel to the left about 5-10 degrees and see if that readjusted it - but not sure if that cold break something with the anti spin coil or something ?.?
It's a 2004 Suburban - any ideas anyone ?
#88
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From: In the Sticks of Virginia
THANKS !
I got to drive the truck today some more after doing to the swap and .... No more clunk -- BUT -- the steering wheel is now tilted to the right about 5-10 degrees when then truck is driving in a straight line
It doesn't pull in either direction and I don;t have to force it - but the steering center now seems to be off a bit.... any ideas ?
I was going to line up the front tires straight, unattach the intermediate sterring shaft bolt from the inside ( steering shaft yoke ) ,, and then move the steering wheel to the left about 5-10 degrees and see if that readjusted it - but not sure if that cold break something with the anti spin coil or something ?.?
It's a 2004 Suburban - any ideas anyone ?
I got to drive the truck today some more after doing to the swap and .... No more clunk -- BUT -- the steering wheel is now tilted to the right about 5-10 degrees when then truck is driving in a straight line
It doesn't pull in either direction and I don;t have to force it - but the steering center now seems to be off a bit.... any ideas ?I was going to line up the front tires straight, unattach the intermediate sterring shaft bolt from the inside ( steering shaft yoke ) ,, and then move the steering wheel to the left about 5-10 degrees and see if that readjusted it - but not sure if that cold break something with the anti spin coil or something ?.?
It's a 2004 Suburban - any ideas anyone ?
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