GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion 2006 & Older Trucks | General Discussion

Cnotch at the dragstrip

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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 10:49 PM
  #1  
2004_Sierra_Lq4's Avatar
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Default Cnotch at the dragstrip

Hey guys I've got a 2002 RCSB silverado that I take to the drag strip any chance I get. Its hopped up with a 6.0 that might see boost in the future and always have slicks on. I have the Belltech bolt in Cnotch that has the dual plate design that sandwiches the frame for the most strength. I'm curious if bolting it in alone is strong enough for the abuse it will see or if I have to weld it in? I've contacted Belltech and of course for liability reasons they cant say which would be stronger and that it is only designed to be bolted in.I'm pretty sure i know my answer already but I thought I should ask since I know alot of guys are running Cnotches and running much faster times than me so any advice or input would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 11:16 PM
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As a welder I say weld that bitch, provided you are or know someone competent with a machine, weld the surfaces parallel to the frame, leave the perpendicular edges unwelded. Let it rip.

Or bolt it. But I'm a welder, not a driller and bolter. I'm surprised I even own the drills I do.

In the end it's six of one, half dozen of another. If you question your skills or you have a harbor freight 90amp flux core **** box, bolt it.
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:41 AM
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Mine is welded in and I think it still has the bolts in place... I race it.
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
In the end it's six of one, half dozen of another. If you question your skills or you have a harbor freight 90amp flux core **** box, bolt it.
This is similar to the butt connector/solder debate. If you can solder correctly, it is better, but bad solder jobs fall apart all the time and give it a bad rep
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 11:48 AM
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leave the bolts in place and weld it up. no need to go crazy with the weld. you're just double insuring that nothing moves.
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