Caged trucks only
07-29-2018, 03:40 PM
#1
Caged trucks only
I’m looking to cage my truck and I want to hear from members that DD there trucks with a cage in it. I also want to know if there is anything you prefer or would have done before you caged the truck or if you could have changed after the cage install. Also do you prefer thru window or thru cab and why
thanks in advance for any input
thanks in advance for any input
07-30-2018, 12:19 AM
#2
TECH Regular
I’m looking to cage my truck and I want to hear from members that DD there trucks with a cage in it. I also want to know if there is anything you prefer or would have done before you caged the truck or if you could have changed after the cage install. Also do you prefer thru window or thru cab and why
thanks in advance for any input
thanks in advance for any input
I added some pics I have been saving that I saw online.
Last edited by AkSSS; 07-30-2018 at 12:27 AM. Reason: Added pics
07-30-2018, 10:38 AM
#5
Ive built many >8.50 cages, and am pretty avid into rock crawling. I have an '85 Toyota pickup single cab thats caged, and my suggestion to you and anyone reading this: DO NOT go around the dash on anything. If the dash is that rare, pull it out and sell it. Around the dash fits like ****, commonly breaks knee caps, and make ingress/egress impossible. I built an around the dash kit for an Evo8 because he wanted to keep AC and not cut the dash. He regrets it. I think it looks like trash. All my stuff now goes through the dash or I reject the job.
NHRA will not allow you to plate the cage to the body pan and pass tech. For body on frame vehicles, it has to go to the frame. Do not let your fab guy tell you otherwise, unless he is going to eat the cost of fixing it when you fail tech.
1.75x.120 DOM is cheaper than the 1.625x.118 that the NHRA requires, and they say "minimum" so you're over qualified when you use the 1.75.
Chromo on a street vehicle is a waste, but if you wanna do it, go ahead. The cage will not cert for as long as mild, and the cost far out weighs the weight savings. Build a "heavier" mild steel cage, up the boost 2lbs and keep that extra $2k in your pocket.
Thats all I can think of.
NHRA will not allow you to plate the cage to the body pan and pass tech. For body on frame vehicles, it has to go to the frame. Do not let your fab guy tell you otherwise, unless he is going to eat the cost of fixing it when you fail tech.
1.75x.120 DOM is cheaper than the 1.625x.118 that the NHRA requires, and they say "minimum" so you're over qualified when you use the 1.75.
Chromo on a street vehicle is a waste, but if you wanna do it, go ahead. The cage will not cert for as long as mild, and the cost far out weighs the weight savings. Build a "heavier" mild steel cage, up the boost 2lbs and keep that extra $2k in your pocket.
Thats all I can think of.
08-02-2018, 11:53 AM
#7
I talked to my buddy the other day, he has an 8pt. In his truck that goes thru the back window, he commented that if he ever wanted to pull the cage he could simply replace the back window as opposed to fixing holes in the cab.
I told him that was a good point
I told him that was a good point
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08-02-2018, 12:45 PM
#9
I went into a local fab shop yesterday waiting to hear back on the quote. 1 7/8" cromoly 8 pt cage thru the dash. I'll let yall know what the quote is if anyone is interested. I also talked to him about the prefabbed rhodes kit and he happened to have one there in the shop but showed me why he didn't like it. The bends seem to have been bent on the wrong type of bender and they are ovaled.
08-04-2018, 04:15 PM
#10
That right there was more then enough for me to reallly start thinking about the cage.
As far as doing it my self, I may take the road trip S&W race cars and see there cage first hand. I may have them custom build me one. Or I will go to the chassis builder that my tuner uses and have him fab me up a cage.
I’d be perfectly content with a 6pt cage, because I wouldn’t have to make a back window lol