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I use these fat head ones because they have more surface area. They are my favorite for wheel bearings/getting rotors off and pushing crap outta the way lol.
I use these fat head ones because they have more surface area. They are my favorite for wheel bearings/getting rotors off and pushing crap outta the way lol.
Like mentioned, use a pall pin hammer and tap the body in about a 1/4" or so until you have enough clearance. Nothing against Speed Engineering, but I have heard of fitment issues on the NNBS trucks with their headers. I do not understand why the O2 Sensor bungs are at the angle they are at, when they could of angled it down a few degrees and it would of been fine.
This is why I went broke and ordered American Racing Headers, 1-3/4" x 3" with cat'd Y-Pipe. Even being 4wd, I have plenty of clearance, and the 02 Sensor bungs are perfectly placed to be out of the way and still have clearance. The only place where it is very close on mine is where the passenger header passes by the starter bulge on the transmission bellhousing. The header's primary passes between the Bellhousing and transmission lines, and I had to bend one of the brackets holding the transmission lines to get about 1/4" clearance away from the headers. I would hate for the header to cause an issue with the transmission line, such as rub a hole in the line or something. That is a micro issue compared to others I have seen, especially on some cheap Ebay headers.
Like mentioned, use a pall pin hammer and tap the body in about a 1/4" or so until you have enough clearance. Nothing against Speed Engineering, but I have heard of fitment issues on the NNBS trucks with their headers. I do not understand why the O2 Sensor bungs are at the angle they are at, when they could of angled it down a few degrees and it would of been fine.
This is why I went broke and ordered American Racing Headers, 1-3/4" x 3" with cat'd Y-Pipe. Even being 4wd, I have plenty of clearance, and the 02 Sensor bungs are perfectly placed to be out of the way and still have clearance. The only place where it is very close on mine is where the passenger header passes by the starter bulge on the transmission bellhousing. The header's primary passes between the Bellhousing and transmission lines, and I had to bend one of the brackets holding the transmission lines to get about 1/4" clearance away from the headers. I would hate for the header to cause an issue with the transmission line, such as rub a hole in the line or something. That is a micro issue compared to others I have seen, especially on some cheap Ebay headers.
No offense taken. For $400 I figured I would have some issue. I agree on a couple degrees change, it would make all the difference.
If I can't fully stop the rubbing and if a single cat after the ypipe doesn't stop the smell I'll be looking at either Kooks/AR headers with a catted ypipe. AR is fantastic, and fantastically $$$ ;-) Worth it though.
I ended up using a regular hammer. I need to dent in some more. It's much better now though. 1st gear launches will cause rubbing.
I also got a new bung and a bolt to plug. Perhaps I'll weld in a new O2 location. I suck at welding but hey, gotta keep practicing. I keep reminding myself, "$400".... ;-)
i'm currently going through this issue as well. the primaries hit the firewall in 2 places, and the 02 sensor hits the floor board. the driver mount is new, and the passenger mount shows hardly any movement when i torque the engine in reverse, but i'm still going to change the passenger mount before i escalate the situation with them any further.
to minimize contact in the meantime, i used a dull prybar and a hammer to persuade the sheet metal not to contact unless i give it some decent throttle.
on a side note, having to buy angled plug boots to prevent them from touching the ******* primaries would be great ******* information before buying the headers.
05-21-2018, 01:51 PM
