Which would be faster? What would you...
#12
Originally Posted by greentahoe
the mototrons are high impedance. I'll need to change to the car style clip and make spacers and use longer bolts, but they should work without too much turmoil. Would you reccommend the T trim? Did you do the trade in program or did you buy the T trim outright? I was hoping that the T trim would make more boost not less as the best I can make now is 10-11 when its cold >60 outside. Thats with a 2.87. I was hoping that the T would allow near 15# or so. If not I may just go for the motor and wait a bit and swap over to a turbo. Another $2500 and not be able to get over 12# doesnt sit well with me. I could get at least $2500 for my vortech setup and get the livernois kit for $6K or so......
#13
Originally Posted by Naked AV
A forged 408 is cheaper than a forged 370 anyway, because of the proliferation of parts for the 4xx motors; parts for the forged 370's are rather expensive in comparison.
#14
Originally Posted by moregrip
Disagree with that. But then again, I wouldn't be interested in a rock bottom dollar forged assembly anyway, let alone a mail order assembly, except for very few exceptions(like 1 maybe 2 companies). Typically the 370 is 300-500 cheaper. A 3.622 stroke crank is a stocked item, as are 6.098 rods, and corresponding pistons.
#15
Originally Posted by moregrip
Disagree with that. But then again, I wouldn't be interested in a rock bottom dollar forged assembly anyway, let alone a mail order assembly, except for very few exceptions(like 1 maybe 2 companies). Typically the 370 is 300-500 cheaper. A 3.622 stroke crank is a stocked item, as are 6.098 rods, and corresponding pistons.
At what point is a forged motor a must? I was also thinking that I could do a nice set of heads on a stock bottom end 6.0 with a T trim. If I over do it than I could back it down a bit and get another cheap 6.0 shortblock. What do you guys think? Im just throwing things out as they come to me.
AintNoHO, I understand the relation of lower boost to actual airflow, I didnt explain well enough I guess. The S trim has a CFM rating of 1000cfm, the T trim has a rating of 1200cfm. Do you think that is a decent return on the $2000 price tag or would the money be better spent elsewhere?
#16
Originally Posted by greentahoe
My only hessitation with spending top dollar on a forged motor is that I have heard so many horror stories about failing "built" motors. This truck is my toy and I dont mind paying for stuff when it breaks, but if Im going to get the same life out of a stock 6.0 as I would out of an unfortunate crap build from a builder I would rather go through 3 $800 6.0 shortblocks as opposed to 1 5K 408. To my knowledge no one offers any type of guarantee with there motors especially if boosted.
At what point is a forged motor a must? I was also thinking that I could do a nice set of heads on a stock bottom end 6.0 with a T trim. If I over do it than I could back it down a bit and get another cheap 6.0 shortblock. What do you guys think? Im just throwing things out as they come to me.
AintNoHO, I understand the relation of lower boost to actual airflow, I didnt explain well enough I guess. The S trim has a CFM rating of 1000cfm, the T trim has a rating of 1200cfm. Do you think that is a decent return on the $2000 price tag or would the money be better spent elsewhere?
At what point is a forged motor a must? I was also thinking that I could do a nice set of heads on a stock bottom end 6.0 with a T trim. If I over do it than I could back it down a bit and get another cheap 6.0 shortblock. What do you guys think? Im just throwing things out as they come to me.
AintNoHO, I understand the relation of lower boost to actual airflow, I didnt explain well enough I guess. The S trim has a CFM rating of 1000cfm, the T trim has a rating of 1200cfm. Do you think that is a decent return on the $2000 price tag or would the money be better spent elsewhere?
I believe a mostly stock shortblock(forged pistons, high strength rod bolts) can last a long time as long as you are a good tuner or have ready access to one, so you have a greatly increased chance as to not subject your engine to lean conditions or detonation.
As far as thr return on investment for head units(or the whole project for that matter), to me, depends on your end goal and how close to the limit you would be pushing the S Trim, to justify the larger unit
Last edited by moregrip; Jan 2, 2006 at 04:13 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by greentahoe
AintNoHO, I understand the relation of lower boost to actual airflow, I didnt explain well enough I guess. The S trim has a CFM rating of 1000cfm, the T trim has a rating of 1200cfm. Do you think that is a decent return on the $2000 price tag or would the money be better spent elsewhere?
It has heavy duty bearings for a very tight belt or even a cog set-up. (I had my SQ rebuilt for $600 because I cranked the belt so tight to stop slip) The T is also very noisy because of the straight-cut gears (some like that) and is not smog legal (why I keep my SQ). Do I think it's for you? No, not til you get a forged bottom-end. I've broken 2 cranks learning that. First was Summit iron, second was Scat forged. I recommend Eagle or equivalent U.S. quality steel forged. By the way, some folks report forged piston trigger the knock sensor. I don't know, I dont use a ks.
#18
Originally Posted by moregrip
All valid concrens. For me personally, I always try to go with a relatively local, reputable, machine shop for the services I need performed. The main reason being recourse and relationship.
I believe a mostly stock shortblock(forged pistons, high strength rod bolts) can last a long time as long as you are a good tuner or have ready access to one, so you have a greatly increased chance as to not subject your engine to lean conditions or detonation.
As far as thr return on investment for head units(or the whole project for that matter), to me, depends on your end goal and how close to the limit you would be pushing the S Trim, to justify the larger unit
I believe a mostly stock shortblock(forged pistons, high strength rod bolts) can last a long time as long as you are a good tuner or have ready access to one, so you have a greatly increased chance as to not subject your engine to lean conditions or detonation.
As far as thr return on investment for head units(or the whole project for that matter), to me, depends on your end goal and how close to the limit you would be pushing the S Trim, to justify the larger unit

Im at 58327. Figure in a 10% slip and that puts me at 52494. Im not the best tuner, but I have a wideband and HPtuners. Ive got the basics covered. There is a shop down the street from my office that is a sponser on LS1tech. I'll swing in there and see what they say. I dont remember them having very good prices though. If I remember correctly they wanted $800 -$1000 to install a cam and springs.
Have you installed those heads yet? Im very curious to see what they do for your setup.
#19
Originally Posted by moregrip
Disagree with that. But then again, I wouldn't be interested in a rock bottom dollar forged assembly anyway, let alone a mail order assembly, except for very few exceptions(like 1 maybe 2 companies). Typically the 370 is 300-500 cheaper. A 3.622 stroke crank is a stocked item, as are 6.098 rods, and corresponding pistons.
Hey Kevin, what are your plans for the new TBSS?
Green, I agree with you 100%.....making these changes to a daily driver is just nuts IMO....too much of a risk of breakdown.
Last edited by moregrip; Jan 2, 2006 at 09:09 PM.
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