Which would be faster? What would you...
#1
I need a new motor and Im undecided as to which way to go. So far Im thinking
1. stock LQ4 with a T trim (another 2K), 60lb mototrons FLP level 5
2. forged 370, fast 90/90, new rails and injectors(not sure what that would add) and a direct port with FLP level 5. I would just keep the vortech either way since I dont want to uninstall it and try to find someone to buy it.
I guess any combination of those although Im wanting to make the most safe power for the least amount of money. Id like to see 650+ at the wheels.
1. stock LQ4 with a T trim (another 2K), 60lb mototrons FLP level 5
2. forged 370, fast 90/90, new rails and injectors(not sure what that would add) and a direct port with FLP level 5. I would just keep the vortech either way since I dont want to uninstall it and try to find someone to buy it.
I guess any combination of those although Im wanting to make the most safe power for the least amount of money. Id like to see 650+ at the wheels.
#2
Dont waste your money on the 90/90 combo Nelson has a dyno showing a 15hp gain from that switch for 1300 bucks it aint worht it. Is the T trim a bigger charger? Not familiar with the centrifugal stuff. I would do the forged 370 with a bigger supercharger and meth without the nitrous or 90/90.
#4
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Dont waste your money on the 90/90 combo Nelson has a dyno showing a 15hp gain from that switch for 1300 bucks it aint worht it. Is the T trim a bigger charger? Not familiar with the centrifugal stuff. I would do the forged 370 with a bigger supercharger and meth without the nitrous or 90/90.
Is it worth trading over to the LS6 intake and having to change rails and injectors?
Is the stock fuel pump and an inline pump with 60lb inj enough for 15lbs and a 370? I have a meth system as well.
#5
Best to decide on a torque engine setup over high horsepower setup. Heavy weights need torque. Maximize your combo to make the largest amount of torque in the mid range area (2500-5000rpm). Go with the 4.0" bore, 10:1 cr and keep the S trim. You probably won't make 650rwhp but you'll make 600ft/lbs and that's what gets the weight rolling. It also keeps the cost down. The pedal respose will be sharp as well. I would suggest upgrading the pump and go with the 60lb injectors. The meth system will handle the high cylinder pressures and keep detonation out of the picture. The fast 90 won't be worth the swap.
Good luck,
Richard
Good luck,
Richard
#6
Originally Posted by Richard@WCCH
Best to decide on a torque engine setup over high horsepower setup. Heavy weights need torque. Maximize your combo to make the largest amount of torque in the mid range area (2500-5000rpm). Go with the 4.0" bore, 10:1 cr and keep the S trim. You probably won't make 650rwhp but you'll make 600ft/lbs and that's what gets the weight rolling. It also keeps the cost down. The pedal respose will be sharp as well. I would suggest upgrading the pump and go with the 60lb injectors. The meth system will handle the high cylinder pressures and keep detonation out of the picture. The fast 90 won't be worth the swap.
Good luck,
Richard
Good luck,
Richard

#7
I think an inline boost-a-pump would get your the fuel system up to the task. Your in tank pump would probably be ok then. Engines running power adders like blowers or nitrous should opt for heads that have thick deck sections. Although I'm a loyal Edelbrock dealer I highly recommend running after market heads such as Edelbrock, All Pro, AFR or ETP that have thick decks for better head gasket sealing. Our stock 6.0l Stage 2 heads have the airflow your engine needs, but the deck thickness may lead to premature gasket failures in engines running higher initial compression ratios.
A 6.0l short block will generally run $1,700 on the cheap side and $3,000 on the high side. I usually default to the quality parts to help insure a more durable engine build. A 408cid runs between $2600-$4000 depending on parts and machining involved.
Richard
A 6.0l short block will generally run $1,700 on the cheap side and $3,000 on the high side. I usually default to the quality parts to help insure a more durable engine build. A 408cid runs between $2600-$4000 depending on parts and machining involved.
Richard
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#8
I went from a V2-SQ to a V1-T. With the same pulleys, it dropped from 12# to 10# boost, but with more cfm, cooler intake, and more hp than before. Also, I installed a 255l/hr in-tank pump from Edlebrock (Walbro) with new 6AN lines (should have gone 8AN) and a 85gal/hr Edlebrock inline (probably not needed). With my current set-up, I was going 120% on 44lb injectors so I went to 72lb at 70% ds. I'm glad I did, smaller would not have been enough and leave room for more. I hope you know over 50lb injectors are low impedance and I don't think will work with your stock computer without a driver. Don't worry about tq or hp you'll have pleanty of both which means A) I don't think a stock bottom-end is wise you need all forged and 8:1 cr. B) A 60,65,70E tranny will NOT last.
#9
Originally Posted by AintNoHo
I went from a V2-SQ to a V1-T. With the same pulleys, it dropped from 12# to 10# boost, but with more cfm, cooler intake, and more hp than before. Also, I installed a 255l/hr in-tank pump from Edlebrock (Walbro) with new 6AN lines (should have gone 8AN) and a 85gal/hr Edlebrock inline (probably not needed). With my current set-up, I was going 120% on 44lb injectors so I went to 72lb at 70% ds. I'm glad I did, smaller would not have been enough and leave room for more. I hope you know over 50lb injectors are low impedance and I don't think will work with your stock computer without a driver. Don't worry about tq or hp you'll have pleanty of both which means A) I don't think a stock bottom-end is wise you need all forged and 8:1 cr. B) A 60,65,70E tranny will NOT last.
#10
Greentahoe pm me if your interested in how much a 408 will cost you. You can pick up a 6L block and heads for 700 or so thats how much mine was the pistons were toast but it does matter cause you will be getting it honed anyway.


