Personally, I would go with the bigger injector. I think the 30# injectors will be cutting it too close with your projected mods.

I think those injectors that parish8 got were more like $600+ though.

Did you give any thought to the new 5.7L longblock idea? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> 300rwhp + 150shot + converter - ~80#'s = <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Truck]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_truck.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />

John

 

Well John I just bought the blower for $2K and I have so much other stuff I can't really afford to do that... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> I would definately do it if I had the money of course. It is just a little discouraging that those 8.1 injectors won't work.... You think if those are ALL the mods I do it will be OK? heheheh sorry I am just really loving that they are bigger injectors and they are so cheap and they are direct plug ins!!! I don't know what else to do cause I really can't afford $600 for a set of injectors.

 

Hey what about this.... Since you said A wet kit has a nitrous and fuel solenoid and flows fuel and nitrous thru the intake manifold. Then can't I use those 30Lb injectors and then the fuel seleoids would be providing the extra fuel needed by the nitrous wouldn't it? And then I could use my 30 LB injectors!!

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Will:
<strong>Hey what about this.... Since you said A wet kit has a nitrous and fuel solenoid and flows fuel and nitrous thru the intake manifold. Then can't I use those 30Lb injectors and then the fuel seleoids would be providing the extra fuel needed by the nitrous wouldn't it? And then I could use my 30 LB injectors!!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, that would work. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

You should still get a pretty good cooling effect from the nitrous also, even though it won't be sprayed before the blower.

Now, get this **** hooked up and tuned in so we can see some 12 sec passes. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

John

 

Will, wtf do you exactly want to achieve? Do you want to run mid to low twelves? If so PM me and i will get you what my buddy has on his truck. He is not spraying also...NO NEED TO. His reg cab 99 hauls ***...12.40 at 109 hence the need for more traction he should be in the low twelves with that mph. If i'm not mistakin, he has stock injectors. I just talked with him and he has stock injectors. Don't forget the unit has an FMU. You don't need all this other <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> that they are telling you that you need.
________
Blonde Masturbating

 

Yeah, What Hyde said! <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> Stay away from the BS and put real parts in it or save your money for em. BUT I disagree to some point on the convertor. I have built many auto muscle cars anything thats remotely heavy needs a good convertor to get it to leave. You can run good ETs with MUCH less power if you have a stall thats matched to your engines power band. Changing the rear ratios help aleviate this problem but tend to cause loss of mph on the other end. A good convertor will knock off 3-5 tenths easy if its matched to your setup and you have the chasis(traction) for it. Why make big power if you can't get it to the ground when you need it. These trucks have a major hole in the power band from idle to 3500, I would think a good 3000-3200 convertor on slicks with a heavy vehicle will flash up to 36-3700 rpms from a dead idle stop. Leave on it then hit the button , it won't load the motor in the bog zone and it will pull hard out of the stall. Whats good about the new convertors is that they still lock up so they really won't hurt your mph like the TH350 convertors. Low 12s will cost you some money but by no means is it impossible.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Vortech5300:
<strong> I would think a good 3000-3200 convertor on slicks with a heavy vehicle will flash up to 36-3700 rpms from a dead idle stop. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NOT! My yank 3200 flashes to <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> 3200 in my truck with ET streets.

<small>[ July 10, 2002, 08:25 PM: Message edited by: red53gmc ]</small>

 

Allmost all of the advice given in this thread is good advice. I have nothing to offer because it's pretty much been covered. That said, I have a 4.8 and frankly, that is not a good foundation to start with to try to make 12's. The 4.8 are limited IMO to what they will give. The short stoke on them just kills the power potential. It can be done, but it will cost to be done right. Now your decision needs to include what kind of longevity, mileage, abuse factor, drivability, and hauling chariteristics you will be looking for. Ultimately, you need to sort out this advice and start your mods. I personally will not see 12's nor will I pursue it. I have to many other uses for my truck than to take away all its "truck" uses. Now on the other hand if I do hit a 12 that will be great, because I will still be able to tow 6000+ pounds. Nothing is bullet proof, and engines will break, so if you want to see 12's from a stock internal 4.8, don't kick yourself if it goes down. I'm sure you can get there by combining the advice here. Good luck, and guys, please stop bashing other peoples advice. Questions were asked and good advice has been givin all through this thread.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by red53gmc:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Vortech5300:
<strong> I would think a good 3000-3200 convertor on slicks with a heavy vehicle will flash up to 36-3700 rpms from a dead idle stop. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NOT! My yank 3200 flashes to <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> 3200 in my truck with ET streets.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, the Yank converters seem to flash to there rated stall speed. Now with the boost and N20 it will probably stall a bit higher. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

John

 

To everyone,
First of all thanks for all the good help!! Secondly, I would like to find out who makes the best wet nitrous system?!