Will, i've ridin in a couple of differnt vehicles with the 3200 VIG and it a sweet converter. I would not worry about one till the end. You will make a **** load of power before you know it and then if you get a converter, you will be leaving at a higher rpm...more power and it will suck getting traction. Just do it without a big converter and see how it cuts down on tire spin. I could leave on the bottle on et streets and never spin a tire. That b*tch was a fun ride, left people just sitting there thumping their dick heads...lol Alot of people are scared to make real power, don't waste your money on all the hoakie parts, go for the real power makers. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

Will:

Your combo is capable of making enough power to get you in to the 12 sec marker. Your choice of power adders is however going to make for some tuning issues. If you are confident in your LS1 edit tuner's abilities and he truely knows how to tune fuel and timing (espicailly boost tuning)then you will be alright. Just be weary of "big power numbers" as big power doesn't get you ET. Delivered power gets you ET. If ET means nothing to you then chase HP numbers...making the right combo selection to satisfy your goals will make you much happier.

HYDE:

Converter selction, especially when considering big power street vehicles, is not just a determination made for peak output alone. I can spray out of the hole all day long and not worry about the cylinder pressure peaks that casued your engine failure. By allowing the rpms to advance through the 1500-3000 rpm "bog" (which all us truck owners are well aware of) you not only achieve faster accelleration but safer average cylinder pressure. Your dynamic compression stays well into the safe zone of the factory pistons/rods. You can push it but why? most owners here are not conducting destructive testing but want good reliable power.

I would have been curious to see what you truck as capable of on the track. I too ran without a converter at the track and with esentially headers/my homemade intake/HPP3 and 120 RWHP of nitrous I was running 13.1's with 2.0 60fts on stock General 30" tires. (Be it as it may I activated nitrous just after a motor launch and still made reasonable times) Has your buddy's cammed and charged' 4.8L been down the track yet? I'm just curious because very few (on the internet or even off) have pushed Whipples to 9 psi and made sucessful power increases on the stock bottom end.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> That b*tch was a fun ride, left people just sitting there thumping their dick heads...lol Alot of people are scared to make real power, don't waste your money on all the hoakie parts, go for the real power makers </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So what is you take on what are the "real power makers" and the "Hoakie parts?"

Richard

 

oxidizr,
I talked to Bigtex yesterday and he told me he has already tuned his 5.3 for a Whipple at 6PSI and he is going to help me with the tuning for the 9PSI. My question to you and maybe anyone else who knows is this: What do I need to tune for the nitrous? It will most likely be a dry kit and I am going to spray it in BEFORE the air is compressed therefore it will cool the compressor down also cause BigTex told me that the whipple's tend to get a little hot especially in this hot Texas weather. Also I am not going to spray outta the hole. I am going to use just Whipple and gears outta the hole and then when I get into the higher RPMS where the Whipple will not be as great then I hit it. One more thing, a guy told me that if I don't put a purge valve on the kit then it would stall for a second and I wouldn't have such a traction problem. Let me know what you guys think about this.....
<img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

 

Unless you are looking to make a dry kit hit harder or hae the nitrous react more consistantly, the purge is a bit unnecessary and more or less for show. You can run longer lines between the solenoid and fanspray to "soften the hit" or you can use a simple delay timer for the track.

The dry nitrous should work wonders for intercooling with the whipple. Big Tex will probably tell you this too, but just make sure your injectors can flow within reasonalble dutycycle to accomodate both the boost and nitrous HP demand. When you begin to near your goal of twelves you will find traction will become a larger and larger factor in achieving your best times.

Richard

 

Will

Converters don't work like that. You will have to give the truck a little more gas to get going like you usually do but, you won't have to rev to 3400 before you start moving. That would be bad. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> It might feel like when you have a load of something in the bed and it takes a little more throttle to get moving. Thats about the best comparison I can think of. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

If you have a loud exhaust stick with a smaller stall, like a 3000-3200. You might want to call Yank and tell them your plans and see what they come up with. Maybe they can make you a PYE3200 or something although I've heard the 3400 version is very tight(good for loud exhaust setups <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> )

I see your talking about running the 8.1L injectors but, you might want to think about running the injectors that Parish8 has. They're like 41 lb/hr injectors that are direct replacements for the stock units. The injectors are going to be adding the fuel with the dry N20 kit so you definately want some beefy injectors in there. If you do a search on injectors in this forum you'll see the thread Parish 8 started about these injectors.

BTW, I'm not sure how much power the truck fuel pumps are good for but, a boost-a-pump might be a good idea.

Good luck

John

 

Well oxidizr, yes randy has been to the track if i'm not mistaken he went 12.40's and 12.50's at 109. As for my take on performance parts. Hoakie are the air foils, ram air, spark plug wires, ported throttle bodies, aftermarket mass airs, jumping to big injectors, X-pipes,ect. You can spend thousands buying all this bunk *** **** or you can mill the heads get rockers, a cam , some heads, NOS...let me repeat NOS, Tires, and my FAVORITE...superchargers...and make power. I think a heads cam intake truck should make right around 400 at the wheel. Thats the start of real power, no its not 1200 but its a start. Then add a Blower or again NOS and crack some **** in a camaro, vette, mustang, grand national, pantera, lotus, or even if you are lucky a yugo. There is my take on this thread.
________
Hawaii Dispensaries

 

One other thing Will. I know you said you want to use the 4.8L and I think that's a cool goal but, think about this. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

You can get a never run LS1 aluminum longblock for around $3000. These motors have around 300rwhp+/-. They also weigh ~80 pounds less than the iron block. Then all you have to do is throw on a 150 shot of N20 and hang on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

You'd still need the injectors and a converter would be nice also.

Then you could either sell your 4.8L or what I would do is keep it in case something ever happened to the other motor. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Just something else to consider. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

John

 

John,

From what I have read parish8's injectors are like $450 and even though that is a good price I am trying to stick within a budget here. I heard the 8.1L injectors are 30lb/hr. Do you all think this is a good flow rate for all the mods I am doing? BTW, am I mistaken or doesn't a dry kit mean it doesn't use more fuel it just sprays into the airflow? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> Hince the "DRY" in the name? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Let me know if I am wrong on that. I really hope the 8.1L 30lb injectors will work cause I can get them pretty cheap. Please let me know!

 

The reason its called a dry kit is because it doesn't flow fuel thru the intake manifold. The fuel is added by the fuel injectors when the mass air sensor realizes that there is ALOT more air going into the engine.

Nitrous basically raises the %of oxygen in the air and in order to make more power and not blow the engine up a certain % of fuel must be added also.

A wet kit has a nitrous and fuel solenoid and flows fuel and nitrous thru the intake manifold.

If your going to be running the dry kit with the Whipple I think 30# injectors will be pushing it.

I'm not sure if the truck fuel pressure is manifold referenced or not but, if its not the fuel pressure will drop as the boost rises so those 30# injectors will become 21# injectors when your running 9psi of boost.

John

 

John,

Well I can get them for about $250. So you think I should do it?? I don't wanna spend the money on these injectors and then wind up having to put bigger ones in!! That would suck!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Advise me as to what I should do