I want some pacesetter long tubes but I don't know what is involved when adding headers. What is the ory pipe and do I need it? Will my stock cats and oxygen sensors plug right in or do I need adapters? What muffler do you recommend for this application?

 

youw ill have to extend the driver side wires on the 02 or atleast I did. Besides that and just to be safe maybe new header bolts that is it.

I ran stock cats fora little while but they REALLY restrict your flow.

 

ORY means no cats. your o2 sensors will go right into the headers, but you realize that you wont be able to put your stock y pipe w/ the rear 02 sensors on with the headers because you'll need a whole new y-pipe. so if that doesnt make sense, im sorry im to lazy to go back and read it sorry lol

 

if you want to run the pacesetter ORY with the headers, the ORY does not come with cats and is a direct bolt on. If you want cats, you will have to have a Y pipe custom made

 

you can eliminate you back set of o2 sensors with a good tune....Im running long tubes with the y-pipe combo with no cats....emissions require cats, but if they dont look theyll never know cuz you can get your air/fuel mixture right by only using the front to o2 senors in the end of the headers....

 

basically, do you want to stay emission legal or do you want to try and go without cats?
If you decide to stay legal, then fabrication will be needed to add the cats.
You will then also need an O2 sensor extension for the driver side.
If you decide to go the catless route, then you need to buy the ORY pipe, O2 sensor extension, and you will need a custom tune to compensate for the no restriction in the exhaust pressure between the two different O2 sensors on each exhaust bank. If this is not done, your air/ fuel mixtures will be inaccurate and can cause a rich/ lean fuel mixture.
Either which way you go, a custom tune should be used to get the most performance out of your headers.
Also, always use new header bolts. Be carefull when taking the old ones out. Use a lot of WD-40 on all of the exhaust bolts prior to removing them. You should also make sure the threads are clean of dirt or small metal shaving burrs so you do not get a cross threaded header bolt in the aluminum head.
Use anti-sieze on all new header bolts and flange bolts before installing them. Be sure not to cross thread header bolts in the aluminum heads!
Use the correct torque on them as well. Start out at the middle of the header bolts and work your way to the outsides in an alternating fashion. First pass should be at 11ft lbs tq. Final pass right at 18 ft lbs tq. No more no less.
You NEED to retorque the header bolts after several heating and cooling cycles. Though only recheck the torque specs only when engine is cold or cool for the most accurate torque rating/ reading.
You should also recheck all of your collector and any slip joint exhaust pipe bolts as well.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck!

Jim

 

I didnt need O2 extensions for mine. If you are going to stay emissions legal, dont get the Y pipe, you will have to get one custom built. Also the rear O2's dont have to be turned off, all they do is throw a MIL light. The fronts control the A/R mixture.

 

thanks for the info

 

well i just cut my cats out and the engine light came on, now its just basically funneling gas through its self. so the rears are there for something, not just looks!! i just need to call allen and get another tune now

 

I bet it just smells like that cause you dont have cats anymore. Cause if they did something I dont simulators would work, cause it still wouldnt turn anything off in the PCM.