Nylon

'01 suburban 6.0 Bought one to replace my current one. Ebay and seller was an auction reseller and listed as 6.0 Had it shipped to me and opened hood and didn't recognize my engine. Did some google searching on part numbers and started to figure it out. Managed to contact original owner that did the mods one year ago. Had the shop copy the work sheet and sent it to me. Found out they put in a ls9 cam Also has holly sniper 90 mm TB and Gibson exhaust headers. This truck has 3.73 gears. My other two suburbans..both '01 have 4:10 gears one has a standard 6.0 and the other has 8.1. The question is whats the performance difference from the stock 6.0 and also the 8.1 that you guys could estimate. It was dynotune but don't know exactly what that meant and cant seem to recover that data so Im in the dark on what to expect. I haven't titled new truck yet as I have to swap out plow mounts and etc and since were in winter going to wait till spring. Starts a bit slow but idles nice and the little bit I can drive it around property its very nice. I read ls9 cam needs blower of some kind and also makes power high in rpms,,someplace I never drive a suburban rarely above 3k rpm Appreciated Truck is mint inside and out

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Terrible cam choice for a NA engine in a heavy truck. It will be lazy down low.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Nylon

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Nylon

Actually found someone in town that builds engines and race setups. He said I had great components for wrong application. He suggested bolting on 5.3 heads with a slight mill (increased compression) with some kind of cam to give it a bump all over and not loose anything down low. I forgot to ask if the 90 mm throttle body and l92 intakes could still be used or they would have to be swapped out as well. Any thoughts on this vs swapping to a torquer v2 cam? Or 5.3 heads and a torquer cam? On another note If I can find a dyno in the cities 200 miles away...How long would it take and cost to run my current set up for a base line and posterity and straight reference data to post for this weird set up. The shop that did it claimed it was a common set up...from what ive been reading / researching and your guys insight...not the case for power low towing suburban. Maybe this guy towed a load at 4500 plus rpms in second gear and could hold long hills that way...but for pulling out in traffic with 6500 pound trailer and getting it up and going 0-60 that's where I need it. If it does that well it will hold long inclines at moderate elevations no problem. Owner also said he had it tuned for towing. I don't know what could be done to tune it for towing since tuning is for optimum ratio and shifts but towing vs daily drive what would be different. Im going to daily drive and tow frequently...not super heavy and my stock 6.0 suburban doesn't do it too bad. The 8.1 does it with out blinking. so a 6.0 with a little extra would be nice.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Nylon

Don't feel obligated. not trying to single out one user. I haven't figured out navigating and etiquette posting forum. I m just trying to figure out what I should do with this truck before I need it. I took it out and ran it last night quick and very hard to tell. Seems to pull just fine empty compared to my stock 6.0 suburban with 4:10 gears. Certainly doesn't blow it away (the built one with 3:73 gears). Worried that Im going to get run over if I pull out in traffic with a moderate load. That load on that setup may expose the low end weakness. I found some dynos about 100 miles away but looking at $500 to just get a data run. Called shop that did the build work and they just couldn't or wouldn't tell me who dynotuned it. They farmed it out and it was last year. That info would really shed some light on what Ive got.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

As far as tuning is concerning, dyno tuning is expensive, but its an indispensable tool for dialing in timing.

A "tow" tune vs a peak power tune will have timing pulled, and will have protections in place to protect the motor when it gets hot. Like further pulling timing, adding fuel to cool down the intake charge (and lose power) as well as trying its hardest to keep the converter locked if the trans is hot to keep the fluid circulating in the cooler.

To be quite honest with you, I wouldnt touch the top end. Thats gonna be pricey. I would leave it as is and put in a different cam. I can't suggest numbers, but there are a couple members on here who are cam gurus and they will know what you should run. The only thing hurting you is the cam, IMO.

With the cam will require another custom tune, and maybe even a dyno session to get it dialed in. Any tuner worth his salt will be able to help you create tow safe maps.

Dont forget now that youre down this path, you need to run 91+ octane fuel. There is no going back. If you want to run the **** gas, put a stock LQ4 in it, stock reloaded tune and never touch it again. Little bit of octane means a lotta bit of timing and that means a truck that can get out of its own way.

Nylon

Thinking about my conversation with the shop that did this build...I'm starting to wonder if dynotune = handheld as in not actually run on a dyno. Just some kind of ecm tune? Therefore no data. The worksheet posted for who could I ask about what cam to put in this? <there's a sentence. Little googling and saw something like this but that doesn't mean these are good choice.
https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...-8l-5-3l-6-0l/
Love to hear from a huddle of guys who could make some consensus recommendation.