Here's my story:

I had the terminal lugs pull out also (mine is the 4-FET version). Removing the cover showed what appeared to be an epoxied unit, but the "epoxy" turned out to be some kind of rubber that I easily chiselled away with my pocket knife, exposing the entire circuit board. Turns out Flexalite (or their Tier 2 supplier) appears to be getting cold-solder joints on their high heat capacity objects (like terminal lugs). I resoldered them and reassembled the unit, which then worked fine. But what to seal it from the elements with? AH! The can of spray urethane foam that came with my supercharger kit, and I never used. So I sprayed the foam into the unit, let it dry, and just to be sure, gave it a top coat of undercoating tar. That should seal out the water, yes? Well, no. The pcb got wet during a pressure wash and shorted out. I disassembled it and could see the corroded spots from the electrolysis caused by the short. (Boy did I feel dumb.) Anyway, since other people are having reliability issues, I decided to forget it and order the DC Controller mentioned near the top of this thread. In the meantime I wired in a relay which turns the fans on full blast whenever the ignition is on. Noisy, but at least I can drive the truck.

 

My (35A) DCC works quite well.

I like the ability to accurately dial in the turn-on-temp.

 

Why does it have to be so intensly accurate? I just dont see the advantage ...

 

You guys are bad.

 

abbo7, here is a pic of the harness, it's very simple but made very well. I went ahead and took a shot real quick. It's kind of small but you get the idea. It has an a/c tap, pcm wire, ground, power and of course the ls1 oem connectors.
When the engine reaches the on temp, both fans come on low, while both fans are on low, if you turn the a/c on, but fans go high. If the engine cools down and reaches the off temp, one fan stays on high as long as the a/c is on.
Power is provided by the red junction box on the side of the engine, ground is the 10mm bolt that holds that box to the alternator bracket, and right between those two connection points are a group of wires, open up that loom and find the dark green wire, use the supplied connector to tap into the a/c clutch wire.
hope that helps,

abbo, your harness was shipped today and you will have it tomrrow.,

thanks,

allen

 

It might be simple, but I can tell you it looks a whole lot better (as a package) than the one flex-a-lite sent me. I am really looking forward to getting it. I just installed my trans-go, and need to test it out

BTW, I like the option of when the A/C is on and when the fans cool down, it only runs one fan, that is good for the interstate crusies.



I guess I'm just an intense person with intense needs

 

That's really clean/trick looking, Allen.

 

thanks for the coments abbo and marc, this harness will not fall apart, all joints are soldered and crimped and made of txl rated wire. (except for the pcm wire, i couldn't find it in txl so it's sxl or something like that) but this wire will never melt, you can hold a lighter under it and it will not blacken or melt like that cheap auto store stuff. i use fusible link instead of fuses, so it's a cleaner install, and if one happens to open up because of too much amps (from a shorted motor) just give me a call and it's easy to replace. Just like on the starter wires, they use fusible link. FL is a lot harder to blow than a fuse, but it will open if it is overloaded.

later,

allen

 

sweet looking, should've express shipped mine, I'm getting tired of turning the fans on manually (rigged a switch under the hood)