What does it take to install? Is it a major task or a 30 min install? Do you have to have a good knowledge of transmissions, or is it something that is self explainitory(sp)?

 

Its a pain in the ***. I just tried to do it and couldn't get the retainer ring out. Gotta put it on a lift or some tall jacks to get some room for leverage. Not to mention its hot as hell. I am gonna try again at work tomorrow with my tranny mechanic, if he can't do it, then its going to ET Performance for the install.

 

do the servos help out that much? is it worth having if you already have the programmer?

 

OK, tried it again today with the truck higher in the air. Finally got the biatch in. Definetly the best $25 you can spend on the truck. Firms up the half-full throttle shifts nicely. This was with the HPP3 shift firmness ON. Pain to install but with patience you can get it and it is DEFINETLY worth it. Problem is, now the TQM is much more noticeable. Almost feels like as the shift begins the engine cuts out for a split second. If the TQM wasn't there these suckers would shift real good.

 

so you said that it firmed up the half throttle shifts. i assume the full throttle shifts were firmed up too? and for those of us with ls1 edit it shouldnt be as MUCH of a problem on the TQM <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Yeah, half-full throttle shifts, the more gas you give it, harder it seems to shift. The only thing is, on my truck right as it starts the shift, I feel the power drop for a split second until after the shift hits, then the power is back on. I mean its not a long dead spell, but you definetly notice it. I might try lowering my shift point a tad and see if it helps. Its shifting at about 5950rpms on the tach. Never notice the drop of power between shifts until I put the servo in, I guess it was just shifting so slow you couldn't tell the difference. I would think with a transgo kit you would really feal the cut out of power during the HARD shift, chirp the tires, then back in the power again. There has got to be away to disable the TQM?

 

the servo swap is cake! here are some instructions.

servo swap instructions
These are instructions for the 700R4 & 4L60E servo swap. The servo is located on the passenger side about ½ way up the case. You do naot have to drop the tranny, or remove the pan. The pupose of this mod is to get quicker, more positive, firmer shifts. This should only take approximately 20 to 30 min.

1) To start, there is a plate covering the servo, remove this by using a 10mm socket.

2) Remove the retaining ring around the servo cover. Then with a pair of channel lock or vice grip type pliers, gently twist & pull the cover until you can see blue Teflon seal. Pull seal down enough to cut it. ( don’t worry, the new servo will have a new seal w/it. Check to make sure though!)

3) After removing the seal, remove the cover.

4) This next step can be done in two ways. Either remove the entire servo assembly or remove it in pieces. I recommend removeing the whole thing. It’s kinda snug, but can be done.

5) After removal, remove the e-clip holding the spring, the washer then spring.

6) Use either an expensive spring compressor or a $2 pair of c-clamps, clamp the cushion spring retainer and 2nd apply pistion together to remove the metel seal holding it together.

7) Once apart, the servo apply pin should pull through the servo assembly. (Some gentle coaxing w/a rubber mallet may be needed)

8) From here on out, simply replace the stock parts with the new ones & reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. Be sure to coat the new seals/rings with either trans fluid or vasoline.

9) One last thing, you should lightly sand the piston apply pin & the hole where the piston goes through with 400grit or lighter sandpaper on all the new parts until the pin moves freely, otherwise it may bind.

HAVE FUN & TAKE THE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!
if you want some instructions with pics, e-mail me w/your e-mail & i will send them. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

I would like to have your instructions with pics to put on my website.

greghud@swbell.net

 

Servo should R&R in about 30-40 mins on jackstands.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would think with a transgo kit you would really feal the cut out of power during the HARD shift, chirp the tires, then back in the power again. There has got to be away to disable the TQM? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have already traversed these grounds...When I finished the converter swap I also completes the TG shift reprogram kit set-up with 3 washer firmness. This is how I can best describe WOT shifting:

1. RPMs pull to designated shift point.
2. Shift solenoid activates and PCM responds with droping total timing to -10*.
3. As transmission re-engages (Truck has just laid 1 ft patch from shift engagement) the PCM determines "delivered torque output."
4. Due to the sudden change in wheel speed and load the PCM determines "delivered torque output" exceeds predeterimed TQ threshold (350 ft-lbs stock,) the timing is droped back to "safe" perameters (-10* to 15* total timing which feels like a momentary "bog") and addresses "abuse mode" protocol.
5. Immediately the PCM re-evaluates "delivered torque output" and begins to drop fuel from every other cylinder in firing sequence to lower engine output (this is like hiting a 3000-3500 rpm rev-limiter and boucing off it for a half second.)
6. Once "delivered torque output" well below the threshold normal operation resumes.

Basically, after barking the tires the truck falls on its face and starts bouncing off a 3000 rpm rev-limiter until you get out of the throttle or the torque drops low enough for the PCM to allow normal operation.

TQM is integrated with many functions and value tables within the PCMs code. TQM can be elimated or reduced but buy nothing short of custom tuning via reflash (tuner) or LS1edit. Unfortuantley, there is no EASY out on this one.

Richard

 

OK, good explanation Richard on the TQM. Actually, mine doesn't do that though. Not THAT noticeable, just a slight hesistation as its making the shift, almost as if it has an ignition kill with a kill time thats too long or something. Funny thing is though, I put the exhaust on yesterday, now the truck barks tires on the 1-2 shift everytime and doesn't seem to have the flat spot, or atleast its not as pronounced. That was so weird, before the exhaust the tranny shifted firm but would not bark rubber on shifts to save its live, put the exhaust on and now it does it on every shift. I guess the exhaust does help it make a little more power which pops the tranny a little harder. This is with the servo and shift firmness but no shift kit. Hell, I don't need the shift kit now.