i still cant believe ppl are having issues breaking flexplates when not even making good power.

 

i know im not a 500+rwhp truck...but it has a little something to it. i think its the rpm that i run on a stock flex plate.

 

I turn 380-400ish rwhp 6800 rpms no issues on a bone stock 10 year old 60e flexplate. Seems just to be a hit or miss thing. Slap in a new one and call it a day.

 

Did you not read where I said a supporting vendor had em for $280 shipped??Not $305...

I read of some issues with the TCI,do a search...

 

WHICH SUPPORTING VENDER has it for 280shipped? THE LINK YOU POSTED the dude said 305 shipped. i can post the email of what i said and what he told me. simple as that. so if your talking about another vender having that same flex plate why didnt you just post their link vs the other one. yet if your saying that FTIconverter people are selling it at 280shipped for the LS1tech people then he's shorting the PT.net people.

 

Keniff, thanks for the inquiry. Our flexplate is billet aluminum with a bolt on ring gear and it is SFI certified as well. The cost for this flexplate is 289 and freight would be 16. making the total 305 to your door. You can give me a call at 1-866-726-8358 or we also accept paypal as well.

Thanks,
Greg
FTI

From: keniff_1
To: askfti@fticonverters.com
Sent: Wed, August 18, 2010 3:42:20 PM
Subject: Billet Flex plate

hello,

i'm a member on Performancetrucks.net and i started a thread about me breaking my stock flexplate on my 6.2 swap.i was told to upgrade to your flex plate vs a TCI or SFI. i am still running the 4L60E, and im running a PI3600 converter. i was wondering how much the flexplate would be shipped.

Thank you

 

unless youre near 8k rpms your rpms shouldnt be a concern

 

Wonder if this is more of install issue rather than a defect?

I would just think some of us with the older trucks and that have done a lot of engine/trans r&r would be having the problems. Im not really sure how you would damage it though unless you hit the fp with the bellhousing.

 

over tighting the bolts could lead to the cracked issues. Its only a certian amount of lbft, if cranking them in with a impact, i could see this happening

 

i installed it like you normally would. nothing to hard.

no, i put it on with a 1/2" ratchet and loc-tite. i didnt pull it on at an angle. i walked it around in a circle tightening it a little at a time until it was snugged up. the converter bolts went in with ease. i dont tighten those down until i have all 3 in. i then put a small amount of loc-tite on 1 converter bolt then tighten it down, roll the crank, repeat, roll the crank, repeat.

i dont think me pushing the tranny in close then, jacking it up and then pushing it closer caused the problem. i talked to a mechanic by my parents house (he builds dirt track cars) he said he's installed a new converter, then 6 months later he broke the flex plate.

i had a loose converter bolt when i installed the Circle D, but i was just thinking i was wrong so i drove it a few months. i then pulled the 5.3 to swap in the 6.2 and made sure all the bolts were tight. if i do use an impact on any bolt that involves the tranny i use it on 1 then go back on 2 for a split second to make sure it's tight enough.