Guys, been reading up and trying to get some solution. Going to be doing a cam swap on my new engine that will be on the stand. Is there any home made solution I can try? I'd like to avoid having to but a $60 tool for a one time use. I have air tools, but I have a feeling that will just rotate the assmebly when I try to back out the crank bolt. Somebody was talking about a plumbers chain wrench, but when I looked that up on Sears all they has was something capable of a 4" OD max and it looked like it mated up to the gear teeth, so I'm not sure I'm looking at the right thing.

Also, anyone have a approx measurement of how long that "ground" down section of the wooden dowel needs to be for the lifters?

Thanks guys, getting close to go time on the cam swap.

 

i would think you could just hold the flywheel with your hand and it wouldnt move. of course dont try to hold it at first just put the impact on it and see what it does

 

You can loop a chain through the pulley and bolt the other end to something on the motor. Thats the way i did it. I tried a chain wrench but that damn thing is so tight.

 

use a long thick flat head screw driver...put it up into the hole on the bottom of the transmission and spin the crank bolt until the screw driver wedges itself in on one of the converter bolts. vuala! the flywheel is locked

 

Do you have the stock pulley? If so, get a 4' crowbar and work your way through the spaces on the back of the pulley and have somebody hold it steady with both hands while you use a breaker-bar and cheater pipe on the bolt. That's what I did. PM if you have any questions about it, I'd be glad to help. The crowbar was like $7 at harbor freight.

 

why not use the factory tire iron for that?

 

An impact has always worked for me for removal. For installation I have a couple of old flexplate bolts I use in conjunction with a pry bar wedged against the arms of the engine stand, never an issue getting what is it, 150 degrees? As for the wooden dowel, never needed one, I roll the engine upside down.

 

I already had the crowbar lying around and it was just easier for leverage. But, an impact gun (a 1/2" impact with 15/16" socket) poped it off in like 3 seconds. Come off so quick I thought it broke it.

 

I would do that if the engine was still in the engine bay, but this for the longblock I'm having shipped to me. The plan was to send it right to the engine stand for the swap.

that's what i was worried about, possibly breaking the bolt off...that woudl be a b!tch. so 15/16 or 24mm will work for the crank bolt. Good to know.

Sounds like a pry bat through the pulley or against the stand arms is the way to go for the install. Thanks guys.

 

24 mm, and an impact. The assembly will not turn over.