Running without LR header bolt
#1
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Running without LR header bolt
I'm installing Thorley Tri-Y headers on my 2005 2500HD 6.0L. The driver's side rear exhaust manifold bolt has been broken for awhile. It wasn't broken flush with the heads so I wasn't too worried about getting it out. I was working it out with vice grips when it snapped off flush with the heads. It had turned 2-3 turns before it snapped. I cannot drill it out since it is too close to the fire wall.
Will I do damage to the new headers by running them temporarily without that bolt? I don't have time right now to pull the heads to extract the snapped bolt properly. I plan on swapping cams so I'll probably pull the heads at the same time and maybe swap to 243 heads??
Let me know.
Will I do damage to the new headers by running them temporarily without that bolt? I don't have time right now to pull the heads to extract the snapped bolt properly. I plan on swapping cams so I'll probably pull the heads at the same time and maybe swap to 243 heads??
Let me know.
#3
Weld a nut to the stud and turn it out. If it is broken beneath the surface weld a tit up to reach the nut. In Canada this happens all the time with the extreme cold/heat cycles. It doesnt hurt the aluminum.
#6
KickinAssAndTakinNames
i had a bolt sheared of at the head when i replaced the stock mani for pacesetter LTs. lol it was just gone and i never touched it, ran it with out the bolt never had any issues or noises...
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I'm borrowing a 110v MIG welder from a friend. I'm going to attempt welding a nut to the broken stud.
Are there any precautions I need to take before welding? Do I need to disconnect the PCM to avoid the risk of toasting it?
I assume I should ground the welder to the engine at the alternator bracket.
Are there any precautions I need to take before welding? Do I need to disconnect the PCM to avoid the risk of toasting it?
I assume I should ground the welder to the engine at the alternator bracket.