Project 6.0 has begun! ***Need Suggestions***
May 2, 2006 | 07:33 AM
#61
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From: Lake Conroe Texas
Originally Posted by tdrumm
Honestly, I would use the intake manifold, harness, and fuel system from your current engine, and just swap the LQ9 longblock in. There won't be any worry of compatibility issues with connections that way.
What kind of exhaust setup do you plan on running as that should impact your cam selection. Also do you anticipate any kind of head work?
What kind of exhaust setup do you plan on running as that should impact your cam selection. Also do you anticipate any kind of head work?
I've got pacesetter headers with the offroad y pipe coming. I currently have dynomax ultraflo duals from the y pipe back, but those will probably come out when the pacesetters go on.
What size exhaust pipe should I run if I go with a single all the way back? will 3" be large enough? Or do I need to go bigger than 3" for a single outlet? I was looking at a Magnaflow catback like this one (click here )
I don't anticipate any head machine work - I know nothing about it, so I'd rather not even get into that.
I can run the 224 high lift with no head work or any other modification right?
May 2, 2006 | 07:36 AM
#62
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From: Lake Conroe Texas
Originally Posted by Quik
dude its simple. what i did was remove my hood, didnt have to but did it for the sake of no accidents. i also removed my grill and my upper rad bracket. with that out of way you ahve all the room in the world to move it outward. like stated i pulled motor, harness, tranny, accesorries all as one. installed them all as one also. actually when ipulled the 5.3 out i removed the alt and used that bolt for the chain and a bolt in the passenger side head. but for the install i just used 2 bolts in the heads and installed it complete. i did also remove the front brace under the motor to help in aid with movement and clearance for the oil pan. also with everything out as one its alot simpler to mount trans, stall and this way you know all bolts are tight
I'll keep that in mind...because lining up the engine and tranny in the truck isn't all that easy and I damn sure don't want to damage anything trying to do it.
May 2, 2006 | 07:23 PM
#65
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From: From Houma La. Living n Ellisville Miss.
I Would Go With Either The Tr220 On A 114 R The Comp 216/220 U Have To Rember U Have A X-cab And More Weight To Get Moven I Would Not Go With The Tr224.i Wouold Also Go With A 3000 Stall.i Use Ptc,just Rember U Can Get These Things N All Kind Of Ways U Can Get A 10" 3k Stall That Is Lose R Tight U Need To Figure Out What U Need.not Hard Just Takes Time
Pm Me If I Can Help with Any thing else
Pm Me If I Can Help with Any thing else
May 2, 2006 | 07:41 PM
#66
Originally Posted by Colby 04
It's a 2005, so everything should be the same as my '04, right?(wire harness)
I've got pacesetter headers with the offroad y pipe coming. I currently have dynomax ultraflo duals from the y pipe back, but those will probably come out when the pacesetters go on.
What size exhaust pipe should I run if I go with a single all the way back? will 3" be large enough? Or do I need to go bigger than 3" for a single outlet? I was looking at a Magnaflow catback like this one (click here )
I don't anticipate any head machine work - I know nothing about it, so I'd rather not even get into that.
I can run the 224 high lift with no head work or any other modification right?
I've got pacesetter headers with the offroad y pipe coming. I currently have dynomax ultraflo duals from the y pipe back, but those will probably come out when the pacesetters go on.
What size exhaust pipe should I run if I go with a single all the way back? will 3" be large enough? Or do I need to go bigger than 3" for a single outlet? I was looking at a Magnaflow catback like this one (click here )
I don't anticipate any head machine work - I know nothing about it, so I'd rather not even get into that.
I can run the 224 high lift with no head work or any other modification right?
I don't think there are any differences from 04 to 05 but I still would use as much of your existing parts as possible.
I think a 3" single exhaust is fine for what you are looking to do.
A 224 high lift will work no problem, but I like the 220 recommendation better. You'll need new valve springs springs and should get new 7.4" pushrods too.
May 16, 2006 | 08:13 PM
#67
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From: Lake Conroe Texas
I decided on the 224/224 114 LSA, but on TR's website, I don't see a "high lift" version? Do they make a high lift or do I have to go with another brand? Also, what sort of difference will the higher lift cam make? Noticeable at all?
May 17, 2006 | 04:13 PM
#69
If you can't find a high lift cam you can swap up to 1.8 rockers and get some additional lift that way. I don't have any dyno #'s but when I put my cam in my 5.3 I ran it for a few days with the stock rockers, then put in my 1.8's and get a good SOTP difference. My cam is .551 lift, but with the 1.8 rockers I am getting .583.
FWIW....the engine and tranny will easily come out as one piece. Yeah, theres some additional things to unplug, but IMO it would be worth it to avoid having to pull the starter and unbolt the converter from the flexplate under the truck, especially with the 4L60E and it's full bellhousing. You only have a tiny little window in which to work. The 4L80E wouldn't be too bad since you can remove the lower part of the housing and access the converter that way. But it's up to you. Since you have to pull the intake manifold off anyway, that would make it easier to get to the bellhousing bolts from the top, if you decided to leave it in.
The disadvantage to pulling the tranny with the engine is that you will have to drain it completely, or it will drain itself as you lift it with the motor. That, and you have more wiring and crap to unhook.
Also - you don't have to remove your hood to get it out of the way. See this post.
FWIW....the engine and tranny will easily come out as one piece. Yeah, theres some additional things to unplug, but IMO it would be worth it to avoid having to pull the starter and unbolt the converter from the flexplate under the truck, especially with the 4L60E and it's full bellhousing. You only have a tiny little window in which to work. The 4L80E wouldn't be too bad since you can remove the lower part of the housing and access the converter that way. But it's up to you. Since you have to pull the intake manifold off anyway, that would make it easier to get to the bellhousing bolts from the top, if you decided to leave it in.
The disadvantage to pulling the tranny with the engine is that you will have to drain it completely, or it will drain itself as you lift it with the motor. That, and you have more wiring and crap to unhook.
Also - you don't have to remove your hood to get it out of the way. See this post.
May 17, 2006 | 10:24 PM
#70
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From: Lake Conroe Texas
hmm...TR's website says that 1.8 rockers aren't reccomended with the 224/224. Thanks for the heads up on the HP gain though.
I plan on pulling the engine and tranny together, I don't want to mess with stabbing it in the truck and the risk of messing up the tranny pump. If I drain the tranny via the drain plug, is that sufficient to avoid pouring fluid when I lift it? Or will I need to do it a different way?
I plan on pulling the engine and tranny together, I don't want to mess with stabbing it in the truck and the risk of messing up the tranny pump. If I drain the tranny via the drain plug, is that sufficient to avoid pouring fluid when I lift it? Or will I need to do it a different way?
