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Please Explain the Torque of Crank Bolt

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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 06:57 PM
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Question Please Explain the Torque of Crank Bolt

I've been trying to figure out the proper way to reinstall the crank bolt. I understand it a little, but not 100%.
What I don't get is the 3 procedures mentioned in this torque spec guide for the crank bolt: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
Where can I rent this type of torque wrench?
Will I need a new crank bolt? I ordered the crank pin kit from magnacharger. Will it come with a new crank bolt?
Please explain this a little bit better for me to understand.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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If i know you, you are VERY cautious about your baby. Spend the 4.65 and get a new bolt. Basically chalk up your motor by either putting a prybar between your torque converter feet or you can use the slots in the pulley itself and butt it up to the frame rail. Somehow wedge a prybar to stop the motor from turning. Then get a 22 or 24 mm socket (cant remember off hand which it is but methinks its a 24mm) and breaker bar. put about a 3 ft cheater pipe over it and get ready to herniate. Now get a few friends to help. Get one to help you pull and another to keep the socket on the bolt. HERNIATE!!!!!! Pull the hardest you have ever pulled in your life. Just when you start to feel your intestines pushing through, you are there. Dont forget the red loctite on the threads before the install.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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i just hit it with the 250ft/lb impact till it stops moving and then for another 5 sec or so. i do use a new bolt everytime. definately not factory procedure but so far so good.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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Will I need a new crank bolt? I ordered the crank pin kit from magnacharger. Will it come with a new crank bolt?

Yes it come's with a new bolt. When you get the kit it has step by step instructions it's a piece cake to install. Man you sure do have alot goin on.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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I used a strap wrench that i just so happen to have being that im a plumber. I worked great, fits right on the crank pulley and you dont have to worry about bending anything. Just throwing some ideas out there for you. Like farmerbeau said get ready to HERNIATE!!!!!!
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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The procedure is to use the old bolt to pull the pulley on all the way and torque it to 240 ft/lbs. Then remove it, install the new bolt, torque to 35 ft.lbs and then add 140* of turn. I am with the others though......as tight as you can get it.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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I have yet to hear that of anybody getting the full 140*. Just tighten the dogpiss out of it.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBeau
If i know you, you are VERY cautious about your baby. Spend the 4.65 and get a new bolt. Basically chalk up your motor by either putting a prybar between your torque converter feet or you can use the slots in the pulley itself and butt it up to the frame rail. Somehow wedge a prybar to stop the motor from turning. Then get a 22 or 24 mm socket (cant remember off hand which it is but methinks its a 24mm) and breaker bar. put about a 3 ft cheater pipe over it and get ready to herniate. Now get a few friends to help. Get one to help you pull and another to keep the socket on the bolt. HERNIATE!!!!!! Pull the hardest you have ever pulled in your life. Just when you start to feel your intestines pushing through, you are there. Dont forget the red loctite on the threads before the install.
More aggie engineering. I am picturing this and it is not pretty.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by reveille5
More aggie engineering. I am picturing this and it is not pretty.
One.....two....three......HERNIATE!!! And dont let that socket slip off the bolt. OUCHIES!!!!!
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBeau
I have yet to hear that of anybody getting the full 140*. Just tighten the dogpiss out of it.



I'm a big fugger...and so is Preston, we couldn't hit 140*.
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