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Parish8 question? ConRod Bolts...

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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by parish8
i have heard this and was concerned too but many people just slap them in and have good luck so that is what i did.

i probably have 5000HARD miles on these bolts. i didn't resize and they are the standard arp rod bolts. i did the torqe and loosen 3 times trick and that is it. when i was nitrous only i was shifting above 6800 but now with the turbo i am shifting at 6400max.
sounds like a good idea to me

just bring this to the top since i found it useful
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 06:37 AM
  #12  
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So....... I'm left unsure of things here. I ordered ARP rod bolts yesterday. Are they going to cause a problem? I'll be shifting around 64 to 6600, with about 10lbs of boost I'd imagine/guess. Do I need the ARP's or should I leave well enough alone? Opinions needed.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:14 AM
  #13  
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i have run only the pro rod bolt in all my 5.3 and in the 6.0s and a few other motor i have builded never had a problem.and the 5.3 seen 7400 rpms more than once and the 6.0 has seen 7k a few times
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:58 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by L-EATER
The whole re-sizing thing applies to rods that use conventional rod bolts with a nut like a regular SBC. Simply removing a capscrew bolt like ours and replacing it with another doesn't distort the rod like pressing out and in the bolts in a SBC rod does.
This is exactly correct. The LSx engines with the bolt style rod bolt and not the pressed in stud and nut do not require resizing. As a matter of fact the rods can not be resized. They are powdered metal and are made and machined as one piece and then "cracked" or broken to seperate the rod at the journal. That is why the rod looks like it was broken, it was. To resize they actually have to grind the cap and rod mating surface(or just the cap) to make the diameter smaller then re-hone the rod to correct size.
Howards Cams actually sells aftermarket racing powdered metal cracked rods for small and BBC. They are very strong.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:28 PM
  #15  
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Well...... I know I feel better. I was concerned about the process to follow when I go to install the new ARP rod bolts. It sounds like I just remove the old bolts and install the new? Thanks, Jim
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:36 PM
  #16  
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how strong is very strong what can the stock rods hold with arp bolts?
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:45 PM
  #17  
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I know of atleast 3 people out at the local track running arp rod bolts with 700+ hp in LS1's so I would imagine that could be considered very strong for a stock part.


Who is this moregripatwork character? I know the obvious but wondering why you would need a diff screen name.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #18  
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i was always told if shifting over 6200 alot to change them
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