oil pressure ploblem
Jun 9, 2005 | 10:16 PM
#11
you can replace the sending unit by installing a mechanical unit to see what your pressure really is, your pressure should be around 50 - 60 psi, not 40 psi.
if the pressure is still to low, worse case scenario, you pump was set wrong on the crank and it spent all of this time eating it self to nothing.
you filter is full of the pumps fragments, and so is the tube from the pump to the filter.
if your running a **** filter that opens a valve to save the motor from running dry, partials from the grinding pump is passing through the oil gallery to all of the bearings and lifters, unknown of how long it has been this way you can count the motor being shot.
that is the worse case scenario.
best case scenario, sending unit was shot and you replaced it, oil pressure is fine.
if the pressure is still to low, worse case scenario, you pump was set wrong on the crank and it spent all of this time eating it self to nothing.
you filter is full of the pumps fragments, and so is the tube from the pump to the filter.
if your running a **** filter that opens a valve to save the motor from running dry, partials from the grinding pump is passing through the oil gallery to all of the bearings and lifters, unknown of how long it has been this way you can count the motor being shot.
that is the worse case scenario.
best case scenario, sending unit was shot and you replaced it, oil pressure is fine.
Jun 10, 2005 | 12:26 AM
#12
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Originally Posted by PappyDan
you can replace the sending unit by installing a mechanical unit to see what your pressure really is, your pressure should be around 50 - 60 psi, not 40 psi.
if the pressure is still to low, worse case scenario, you pump was set wrong on the crank and it spent all of this time eating it self to nothing.
you filter is full of the pumps fragments, and so is the tube from the pump to the filter.
if your running a **** filter that opens a valve to save the motor from running dry, partials from the grinding pump is passing through the oil gallery to all of the bearings and lifters, unknown of how long it has been this way you can count the motor being shot.
that is the worse case scenario.
best case scenario, sending unit was shot and you replaced it, oil pressure is fine.
if the pressure is still to low, worse case scenario, you pump was set wrong on the crank and it spent all of this time eating it self to nothing.
you filter is full of the pumps fragments, and so is the tube from the pump to the filter.
if your running a **** filter that opens a valve to save the motor from running dry, partials from the grinding pump is passing through the oil gallery to all of the bearings and lifters, unknown of how long it has been this way you can count the motor being shot.
that is the worse case scenario.
best case scenario, sending unit was shot and you replaced it, oil pressure is fine.
I remember when I was putting my engine together I had to do some notching of the oil pump stud nut (HD arp setup) as it was allowing the oil pump to bottom out on it which would of allows a lower oil pressure...
I also switched to a full flow oil system with dual full size filters as the stock setup will bypass as much as 50% of the oil even when fully warmed up in a warm/hot engine at wot....almost 80% when stone cold...remember there are bypasses in the filter adapter as well as in the filter (only when the filter gets extremely dirty)
Hope you get it figured out fast...but start with the basics and you will!
Ken
Jun 10, 2005 | 01:24 PM
#13
well had it in the shop at work for half the morning and installed a mech guage and changed the oil. we will see what it does. if it is still bad i will be putting it on a trailer and taking it to houston. i also got a sample of the oil to send off.
i cut the oil filter open and did not see any thing unusual.
and last my damn caltracks are striped on one end on top of all this b.s.
i cut the oil filter open and did not see any thing unusual.
and last my damn caltracks are striped on one end on top of all this b.s.
Jun 10, 2005 | 02:20 PM
#14
Banned
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,151
Likes: 1
From: From Houma La. Living n Ellisville Miss.
Originally Posted by (Ken)-Blown-383 4x4
Totally agree...this is the first thing that should be done before you waste any money on unnessary parts...if you brought it to our dealership that is what we would do first...hook up a mechanical guage and "verify" there is a problem first....now if you have not changed the oil in a while of course I would do a filter/oil change first...keep the filter just in case you need to open it up for inspection.
I remember when I was putting my engine together I had to do some notching of the oil pump stud nut (HD arp setup) as it was allowing the oil pump to bottom out on it which would of allows a lower oil pressure...
I also switched to a full flow oil system with dual full size filters as the stock setup will bypass as much as 50% of the oil even when fully warmed up in a warm/hot engine at wot....almost 80% when stone cold...remember there are bypasses in the filter adapter as well as in the filter (only when the filter gets extremely dirty)
Hope you get it figured out fast...but start with the basics and you will!
Ken
I remember when I was putting my engine together I had to do some notching of the oil pump stud nut (HD arp setup) as it was allowing the oil pump to bottom out on it which would of allows a lower oil pressure...
I also switched to a full flow oil system with dual full size filters as the stock setup will bypass as much as 50% of the oil even when fully warmed up in a warm/hot engine at wot....almost 80% when stone cold...remember there are bypasses in the filter adapter as well as in the filter (only when the filter gets extremely dirty)
Hope you get it figured out fast...but start with the basics and you will!
Ken
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